Can wire size be too big?

[Dwalls]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Take the cable with you and see if it can handle the worst cases. I'm pretty sure I saw another cart here with 1/0. If you have a series, with the FNR by your legs, having linkage to a mechanical switch. that may be your worst cables, as they have to make a 90° turn +/- and all physically fit in the space. If you have a series, all four motor cables will be 1/0, while a SepEx will only need two 1/0, and two smaller ones.

If it were me, I'd definitely try to make it work. I don't remember mine, but it seems like it was around $100 in cable, but that may have included lugs and heat shrink.

I think that I have a series cart but I'll know more Thursday when I have time to check more. I know that I have the F/R under the seat and there is linkage going to the F/R under the passenger side of the seat in front of the controller.

Thank you.
Donald

[CP241]

in terms of conductivity, especially in a high current application like a golf cart, wire can't be "too" large. The only time larger wire becomes an issue is when routing through tight places, it's not as flexible as smaller gauge wire is.


The only other problem people can have with larger wire is they may not posess the tools to properly crimp the terminals. improper terminal crimps can actually cause worse performance than smaller wire. It's like a chain, the chain is only as strong as its weakest link. IF you've got a big heavy tow chain and a clothes hanger to connect it to a hook and pull a vehicle, it's not going to work out very well.

The same applies to where you install the wire. IF you have a series cart you'll need to replace the cables going to the F/R switch as well. Many people neglect to do that. And the cables going to the motor.

As long as you have the capability to properly crimp the terminals, all will be well

[Dwalls]

Originally Posted by CP241

in terms of conductivity, especially in a high current application like a golf cart, wire can't be "too" large. The only time larger wire becomes an issue is when routing through tight places, it's not as flexible as smaller gauge wire is.


The only other problem people can have with larger wire is they may not posess the tools to properly crimp the terminals. improper terminal crimps can actually cause worse performance than smaller wire. It's like a chain, the chain is only as strong as its weakest link. IF you've got a big heavy tow chain and a clothes hanger to connect it to a hook and pull a vehicle, it's not going to work out very well.

The same applies to where you install the wire. IF you have a series cart you'll need to replace the cables going to the F/R switch as well. Many people neglect to do that. And the cables going to the motor.

As long as you have the capability to properly crimp the terminals, all will be well

point taken and understood, we crimp cables with a manual crimper in our 20T press and it has worked well for us in the past.

I am planning on replacing all of the cables, battery, F/R, controller, motor and any other large cables that I find.

Thank you
Donald

[gornoman]

Originally Posted by Dwalls

I think that I have a series cart but I'll know more Thursday when I have time to check more. I know that I have the F/R under the seat and there is linkage going to the F/R under the passenger side of the seat in front of the controller.

Thank you.
Donald

You have a series cart.

[Dwalls]

Originally Posted by gornoman

You have a series cart.

Thank you sir, I thought that I did but didn't want to say so before knowing for sure, guess I can say so now.

Thanks

[jethaulin]

i have 2/0 on mine. gross overkill but it works fine for me i do have a f/r contactor instead of the stock setup
152978d1496145928-56-studebaker-build-20170525_152329-1-.jpg

[Dwalls]

Originally Posted by jethaulin

i have 2/0 on mine. gross overkill but it works fine for me i do have a f/r contactor instead of the stock setup
Attachment 185218

I'm sure that is one of the upgrades in my future, does that give you the toggle switch on the dash if I go that way? Is that possible in a series cart?

I never knew there was soo much to these carts.

Lots of learning in my future.

[JohnnieB]

The cart's frame flexes when going over bumps, so the cables need to have enough flex to avoid excessive stress on the battery posts. That why the interconnecting cables withing the battery pack has an "S" shape rather than straight point to point.

If the 1/0 welding cable is fairly flexible, it ought to be okay.

As for going to 42V. I did it for range, but I no longer need all that much range and I'll most likely go to 48V (6x8V) with next battery change. 42V was also the sweet spot for PDS carts before the XCT controllers were introduced. With them, sepex motors with speed sensors can be RPM limited to a safe level going downhill. I exploded my stock PDS motor when I went downhill WOT.

Six 170AH 8V will give you about the same range as six 225AH 6V batteries, and you can go all the way up to 205AH 8V batteries if mot range is needed.

[Dwalls]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The cart's frame flexes when going over bumps, so the cables need to have enough flex to avoid excessive stress on the battery posts. That why the interconnecting cables withing the battery pack has an "S" shape rather than straight point to point.

If the 1/0 welding cable is fairly flexible, it ought to be okay.

As for going to 42V. I did it for range, but I no longer need all that much range and I'll most likely go to 48V (6x8V) with next battery change. 42V was also the sweet spot for PDS carts before the XCT controllers were introduced. With them, sepex motors with speed sensors can be RPM limited to a safe level going downhill. I exploded my stock PDS motor when I went downhill WOT.

Six 170AH 8V will give you about the same range as six 225AH 6V batteries, and you can go all the way up to 205AH 8V batteries if mot range is needed.

Thank you very much, do you have any post of what lift and tires that you put on your cart, i don't want to lift it any more than i have to and don't really want big tires on it and would like to stay with some turf tires probably no more than a 4"lift at the most.
I will probably go with the lester summit charger that I am talking to Scotty about now, it works for now and later when I go to the 48v.
I also think that I want the altrex controller and then i'll figure out what motor to go with.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Dwalls

1. Thank you very much, do you have any post of what lift and tires that you put on your cart, i don't want to lift it any more than i have to and don't really want big tires on it and would like to stay with some turf tires probably no more than a 4"lift at the most.

2. I will probably go with the lester summit charger that I am talking to Scotty about now, it works for now and later when I go to the 48v.

3. I also think that I want the altrex controller and then i'll figure out what motor to go with.

1. My cart is not lifted and the tires are 17" tall, which is 1" shorter than the 18" stock tire height, so I get a little torque gain along with a little speed loss. My cart had a couple bald tires and three of them had slow leaks, so new tires was near the top of my to-do list. (2Ga cables were at the top of the list.)

Not wanting to raise the center of gravity of an already top heavy, short wheelbase, narrow track vehicle, I picked Carlisle Turf Master tires in 18x8.50-8 which were listed on Carlisle's website as having a mounted diameter of 18.3", but measured a whisper taller than 17" after they were mounted on my stock rims. Cart did 18MPH with stock PDS controller, jumped to 24MPH when I installed a DCX controller and went to 28MPH when I up the battery pack to 42V, so the tiny tires didn't slow the cart down much, if any, the motor just had to spin 5.6% faster.

About 20" tall is the tallest tire that will fit under a non-lifted cart. That is a 22% loss in torque where rubber meets road and near the same percentage of speed gain. (Won't see the full 22% due to the torque loss, but close to it)

2. Getting stuff that is compatible with 36V (for now) and 48V (later) is the way to go.

3. Get a SR48400 or larger controller and run the stock motor at 48V before deciding on motor. You might decide not to change the motor.

A lot will depend on tire height you install and how steep the hill are in youur area.