2003 48v Club car DS IQ new XCT controller shuts off when KSI turned on

[Fairtax4me]

Looks like you may have a bad cable on battery 6 positive. The cable end looks burned where it goes into the crimp. If that crimp was overheated the cable will be damaged inside the crimp and cause a bad connection. Also hard to see but looks like corrosion around the crimp on the cable on battery 3 positive.
For what it’s worth those style cables are not the greatest for a golf cart application because those crimp ends do not handle prolonged current draw very well. You might be well off to order a cable kit specific for a golf cart and just ditch all of the current cables.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by Bnkedwards

Thanks Sergio. It’s got the grey stripe facing the B+ terminal. I did install it backwards originally. Could that have fried it without the solenoid ever closing contacts? It still hasn’t clicked once since I put her in there.

I am referring to the diode on the small blade terminals, not the diode on the big posts.

Just remove that small diode to see if the cart works.

Shorting anything on a DS key switch circuit is dangerous since it does not have a fuse and it will likely compromise one of the sonic-welds.

[Bnkedwards]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I am referring to the diode on the small blade terminals, not the diode on the big posts.

Just remove that small diode to see if the cart works.

Shorting anything on a DS key switch circuit is dangerous since it does not have a fuse and it will likely compromise one of the sonic-welds.

Ok I’ll give that a try. I really hope that didn’t compromise anything else. That diode came preinstalled. I think I’m just going to remove the SW180 and reinstall the SW80 that was in it originally to see if that fixes the issue first. Those small terminals are showing continuity across the 2 small terminals just fine. Thank you a ton for helping me ID the issue here. I’ll report back soon.

[Bnkedwards]

You were right Sergio. The dang diode that came preinstalled is backwards. Do you think it could have jacked up the solenoid?

[Bnkedwards]

Ok, so I removed the small diode and tested for continuity. It’s showing 76 ohms across them with the diode removed. Showing no continuity across them with the diode reinstalled correctly. Is this what it’s supposed to do? Should I try anything else before reinstalling it?

[Sergio]

That meter reading with the diode connected means there is a short or "0 ohms", a no continuity reading should be 0L or whatever your meter shows when the probes are not connected to anything.

The diode junction likely got shorted when you put the B- connection on that terminal.

The good news is that does not cause any damage to the Solenoid or Controller, so You can use the cart without the diode until you get a new diode.

The only possible issue is if the surge current caused when you created the short damaged the sonic-welds (a 1N400X type diode will take 30 amps of surge current), but if the cart works You may be fine.

When you get the new diode make sure the side with the band goes with the terminal You put the positive wire from the key switch, top or bottom makes no difference.

[Bnkedwards]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That meter reading with the diode connected means there is a short or "0 ohms", a no continuity reading should be 0L or whatever your meter shows when the probes are not connected to anything.

The diode junction likely got shorted when you put the B- connection on that terminal.

The good news is that does not cause any damage to the Solenoid or Controller, so You can use the cart without the diode until you get a new diode.

The only possible issue is if the surge current caused when you created the short damaged the sonic-welds (a 1N400X type diode will take 30 amps of surge current), but if the cart works You may be fine.

When you get the new diode make sure the side with the band goes with the terminal You put the positive wire from the key switch, top or bottom makes no difference.

Ok I’ll reinstall it without the diode and see what happens! Can I/should I install a resistor from another solenoid until I get a new diode in the mail?

[Sergio]

You mean a diode?

If the diode from the old Solenoid is good it should work fine.

Just use the multimeter to test the diode, You should get low resistance with the probes in one direction and high resistance when you switch the meter probes around.

[Bnkedwards]

Well, it’s doing something different now. I took a video and uploaded it for you to see. At one point it stayed on for a few seconds straight, to allow me to depress the throttle. It gave me 3 clicks and shut off. Video is below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXIIUmgp-Ic

[Bnkedwards]

When I disconnect the usb to the controller, it will stay on and flash one green, one red light on the controller. I pressed the pedal and recorded to get a test of the solenoid engaging.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iMLWmeRNKA