2015 rxv controller no brake output

[brad2388]

I just replaced the motor brake which i thought was bad. When i put the new brake on i discovered there isnt any output on the brake motor wires. the motor brake has 29 ohms across the coil.

is this a common problem in curtis? can it be repaired?

[usgicollector]

Did you check the fuses on the controller cover?

[sthreatt]

If you dont have power at the motor brake plug, then check the red going to the brake switch and see if you have power there. If you don't have power on the red to the brake switch then the problem is most likely in the sonic weld. A yellow goes to the key switch and sends power on the red from there to a sonic weld in the main harness. That one red from the switch feeds into 5 red wires at that weld. As usgicollector said, definitely check the fuses at the controller cover first.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

Did you check the fuses on the controller cover?

I did check both fuses under the cover. Both are good.


I do have voltage no load on the when the keyseitch turns on. But with the coil plugged in i dont have anything (it goes away).

[sthreatt]

Vanishing voltage under a load is a key characteristic of a failing sonic weld.

[brad2388]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

Vanishing voltage under a load is a key characteristic of a failing sonic weld.

Where would that be at? The ones at the controller heat shrinked together?

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by brad2388

Where would that be at? The ones at the controller heat shrinked together?

The weld in question is down at the bottom of the front of the batteries. It is hell to get to with the body on the cart, or you can pull the batteries to get to it, but then it's hard to troubleshoot with the batteries out. Where I would start is pull the floor mat and access panel to the brake pedal. Probe the red wire on the brake switch. See if it goes dead when you load the brake. IF IT DOES, then probe the red on the throttle switch. If the throttle switch is live and stays live when the brake is activated, then you can do a bootleg fix in the floor and splice power from the red at the throttle switch to the red on the brake switch. I have done that before and saved a ton of time and effort trying to repair the weld IF it is only losing power on that one of five connections. If any of the other 5 are also losing power, then youve got to repair that connection.

[sthreatt]

Be certain that you are working with the brake SWITCH red and throttle SWITCH red, and not the sensors. The sensors on each have a low voltage orange wire. Don't monkey with those orange. If you short power to those you will kill the controller.

[sthreatt]

You mentioned the sonic weld near the controller. There is one there also that could possibly be the root of your problem. It is two yellows and a red. If it fails there you lose power at the key switch and end up with the same result. You can check for power at the key switch to see if you're losing power there under load. If it is, then no need to go into the floor.

[brad2388]

While i was waiting on the new brake to come i turned off the em brake checks in the controller. The cart ran fine like that until i reenabled it when the new brake got here.

I will start checking voltages here and see where im losing it at.

Do you have a wiring diagram with the curtis?