Workhorse 350 Robin Rebuild/Rehab Project

[Rocketmp]

Update With New Problems

I checked the bore and piston to wall clearances and found them to be within spec but at max, no big deal in my opinion as im sure many are rebuilt and not looked at. I decided to use new pistons as the old would have been out of spec to the cyl. wall. So, new pistons, rods, wrist pin, rings. PROBLEM: after torquing the rods to the crank I was no longer able to spin the motor over. No I did not check the tolerances, I assumed old crank and new rods would be just fine, if anything sloppy. FAN on the rods facing open end of the case and rod caps have dash marks I lined up also facing open side of the case. I was pretty frustrated at this point and gave up for the night. How about some suggestions and direction. Maybe ill put the old rods back on after disassembly and measuring ...

Thanks for the help

[CP241]

Wrong rods.

I rebuilt the motor in a gator a while back and had that happen. I made the silly mistake of assuming a FE290 rod was a FE290 rod so I tried to save a couple bucks and got.one from partzilla. Same thing. Bought another rod from a deere dealer and it fit perfect, no issues.

[trig123]

Maybe ill put the old rods back on after disassembly and measuring ...
That's what I would do. I never use these aftermarket rods. If your rods were not bad then leave them be. Much rather have the ones that were mated to crankshaft .
You had no issue with rods yet you replaced them ?

[Rocketmp]

quick update, I had some time tonight and reassembled the engine using the old rods and pistons, new rings. Man what a waste of money on the new junk. I wasn't liking any of the new stuff, too much friction moving up and down. Feeling pretty good about it now and plan to install the engine over the weekend. Wish the Robin some Luck! Ill fill you in after.
Thanks for the help guys.

??? What about priming the oil system before start up? Pull the valve cover, turn it over with no plugs and watch for oil making it to the top end?

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Rocketmp

quick update, I had some time tonight and reassembled the engine using the old rods and pistons, new rings. Man what a waste of money on the new junk. I wasn't liking any of the new stuff, too much friction moving up and down. Feeling pretty good about it now and plan to install the engine over the weekend. Wish the Robin some Luck! Ill fill you in after.
Thanks for the help guys.

??? What about priming the oil system before start up? Pull the valve cover, turn it over with no plugs and watch for oil making it to the top end?

Just unscrew the oil pressure sending unit and squirt some oil in the hole until it's full. Screw it back in and fire it up. Shiuld be good from there

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Rocketmp

quick update, I had some time tonight and reassembled the engine using the old rods and pistons, new rings. Man what a waste of money on the new junk. I wasn't liking any of the new stuff, too much friction moving up and down. Feeling pretty good about it now and plan to install the engine over the weekend. Wish the Robin some Luck! Ill fill you in after.
Thanks for the help guys.

??? What about priming the oil system before start up? Pull the valve cover, turn it over with no plugs and watch for oil making it to the top end?

I have rebuilt many of these engines. I just crank em up. Your idea of removing the valve cover is not a bad idea. It should pick up oil pressure quick and splash you in the face lol
I never have removed the pressure switch because I never had any problems with these engines priming. I use engine lube on anything that moves when I build these engines. Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by trig123

I have rebuilt many of these engines. I just crank em up. Your idea of removing the valve cover is not a bad idea. It should pick up oil pressure quick and splash you in the face lol
I never have removed the pressure switch because I never had any problems with these engines priming. I use engine lube on anything that moves when I build these engines. Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz.

LOL I was just gonna say, that sounds like a recipe for a mess!

After everything I went through on that workhorse... I agree it's probably not "necessary" to squirt oil and prime the pump, but I'd rather be safe. That thing turned out to be a nightmare. I think I still have that cover with the pinhole in the oil pump housing around here somewhere...

[Rocketmp]

Thanks for the replys guys.

Ok, installed the engine today, runs and doesn't smoke so we may have done well there.

Issues tho: It needs half to full choke to run and seams to want to run away to really high RPMs. It either runs wide open or not at all. I did clean the carb when apart. I didn't mess with the linkages much from when it came apart. Also backfires out of the carb when I take the choke away and it dies.

I ran the cart before taking it apart and same thing but didn't think anything of it assuming the carb was dirty from sitting.

Looked and didn't find in any manual for factory carb settings and how all the linkages should be arranged to factory settings. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge or a compression. Valves are adjusted properly and engine timing is correct. Please help with the diag

[Rocketmp]

Also where does this part go, Im at a loss

[Rocketmp]

Ok Scratch all That! After posting I read a bunch of forums and comments from the same guys commenting here. Used that info and went back thru the carb, Set the top screw on the carb all the way in then 1 1/2 turns out, Just a guess on my part since many machines are that way. Also adjusted all the linkage to the best of my common sense. Cart starts and runs really good ( no road test yet )

PLEASE READ: Now the starter/gen is stuck on WTHeck? I had to disconnect the battery. Looked for a switch on the pedal (didn't find one). What turns it on and off. Ill sift through some wiring diagrams but LMK if you have some opinions please.