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Old 04-20-2017, 12:00 PM   #11
Mooncarter
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

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Originally Posted by SF_Wood View Post
I am sure that is a very detailed solution that many people understand. Me, not so much since my electrician skills are limited... I installed a 48V to 12V voltage reducer last night to power underbody LED's. This is the only accessory that will be used. The cart is mainly for golf so the only time the LED's will be running is for night cruises. This morning I checked the voltage reducer to see if it was hot and it was semi warm. I have been trying to figure out a way to add a switch that would allow power to the voltage reducer just when I want to use it. I was thinking of a toggle switch that could be added on the wire from the positive of the battery going into the reducer. It doesn't have to be anything pretty, just functional. Am I after something feasible?
Yes. Just put a switch somewhere between pack + and the reducer. Just make sure it can handle the load. Simple.
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:19 PM   #12
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

A little late here but my controller and reducer on [via the key] and nothing on, draw .1 to.2 amps. As far as reducing run time/distance with the reducer being energized you will probably need a tape measure to "quantify" it.
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:45 PM   #13
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

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A little late here but my controller and reducer on [via the key] and nothing on, draw .1 to.2 amps. As far as reducing run time/distance with the reducer being energized you will probably need a tape measure to "quantify" it.
Actually on my original thread linked on the beginning of this thread a member did measure the quiescent current: 0.001 amps on the 48v side.

For Converters without the "trigger" wire, I would personally suggest only switching the 12v side unless you are sure your converter can handle the 48v side being switched.

You can do a simple test by unplugging the +48v Converter wire from your battery, wait 10 minutes and connect it back to the battery.

If You get a huge spark, that will happen inside the switch every time you turn the converter ON/OFF with the switch.

Not only it is not good for the switch contacts, but it can cause the Converter capacitors to blow up since there is no current control on the charging (evident by the big spark).
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Old 04-20-2017, 04:17 PM   #14
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

You could use a dpdt switch, cross wire a resistor so when power is off to reducer the resistor will keep the caps in the reducer charged.
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Old 04-20-2017, 04:23 PM   #15
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

Unfortunately that would not consume less current than having the converter power ON.

You would also have to make sure the 12v accessories cannot be turned ON with only the resistor inline.
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:27 PM   #16
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

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Originally Posted by SF_Wood View Post
I am sure that is a very detailed solution that many people understand. Me, not so much since my electrician skills are limited... I installed a 48V to 12V voltage reducer last night to power underbody LED's. This is the only accessory that will be used. The cart is mainly for golf so the only time the LED's will be running is for night cruises. This morning I checked the voltage reducer to see if it was hot and it was semi warm. I have been trying to figure out a way to add a switch that would allow power to the voltage reducer just when I want to use it. I was thinking of a toggle switch that could be added on the wire from the positive of the battery going into the reducer. It doesn't have to be anything pretty, just functional. Am I after something feasible?
That's fine, not everybody has a working knowledge of electrics or electronics. That's one of the reasons that these diagrams are so useful. Be mindful of the safety angle. There is a huge amount of energy stored in those batteries (as you know, you can weld with a battery). Remember that if it is wired directly through a switch without a relay the switch has to carry the entire current that you have running (which, at full load, is theoretically 7.5A for a 48V cart and 10A for a 36V cart for a 30A converter). Your switch should be able to more than handle those loads - it is better to work on doubling those figures (i.e. 15A or 20A) to be on the safe side. It's akin to wiring a set of high current driving lights to your car straight through the normal light switch without a relay.

For those who don't want to bother with the extra circuitry it is best to use a converter with a trigger wire (the sort that ScottyB or David sells) because, as I see it, these basically have this circuit built in. In other words you get the relay etc (or their equivalent) without needing to add it yourself.
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:02 PM   #17
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

^^^True, back in my 4x4 days, we carried several 12 volt batteries, welding cables and rods to make repairs to suspension parts when we broke them.
Four 12 volt batteries can make a helluva welder!
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:22 PM   #18
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

The man SF_Wood asked what I thought was a simple question concerning his problem. No, I am not an expert on these matters. However, if his reducer is creating heat it comes at an expense from drawing on the battery pack. Simple as that. Different reducers, higher quality etc. may be different. But if his reducer is creating heat I can assure anyone with or without a degree in electronics, physics, or whatever, or I will tell anyone with those credentials that heat is being drawn from his batteries. And depending on the circumstances could be large enough of a draw to make a difference.
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Old 04-20-2017, 08:56 PM   #19
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

If You read my post #13 again, I gave him information on how to determine if it is a good idea to switch the 48v side.

I would also guess the reason for his Converter being warm is because he is drawing 12v current.

Most of those under-body lights have a remote control receiver that is always powered and drawing current.

If he switches all 12v accessories OFF, with a switch or key operated relay (my preference), the Converter will stay cool, last a lot longer and not cause any drain on the batteries.

Of course You can just add a switch on the 48v side without checking anything, but other folks reading these posts may want to know the possible consequences.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:19 PM   #20
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Default Re: Making a 4 wire Voltage Reducer "keyed"?

Exactly Sergio. It could be he has an accessory that is drawing current all the time. We don't know that for certain. However, if the reducer is not energized we know the accessory cannot draw current.

I suppose what I should have said at the beginning is this: If you would like to make certain that your batteries are not under a constant draw, have a switch that de-energizes the reducer. Especially useful for the cart owner who leaves the cart at a campground, weekend home etc. for a period (days weeks maybe) I'm not suggesting to turn the reducer on/off each time an accessory is being used. LOL. That would be a pain and wear out the switch, and hard on the reducer.
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