2002 TXT solenoid problem

[LukeL]

I have a 2002 Series drive TXT that I am having some issues with.

When I press the pedal, the solenoid does not click. Here is what I have done:

Checked the microswitch in the pedal box
Check the FNR microswitches
Bypass the solenoid by jumping the large posts (cart runs)
Replace the solenoid altogether- same issue

Does anyone know why this is happening? I have a Curtis controller and the solenoid has a diode and a precharge resistor on it.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[yurtle]

You can apply 36 volts to the solenoid small terminals to see if it clicks. If so, the solenoid's good.

The best way to troubleshoot is to connect your black lead of your DVM/DMM to pack negative. Then tract the circuit from the reed switch, MS2, KSI, MS3, finally the solenoid. This will determine where your problem lies, which can be a bad switch, bad connector, or bad wire.

[LukeL]

I went out and messed with it again, and now the solenoid is clicking- and as soon as the solenoid clicked it took off at almost full speed.

It did that a couple of times, and now when I press the pedal, the solenoid clicks but the cart does not move at all.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[yurtle]

Look at the throttle box from under the cart. Should be located in the "floor" area. Follow the cable from the throttle box toward the passenger side. You should find a 4 wire Molex plug, usually located between the FNR and controller. That is the most likely intermittent connection. Others are suspect, but this one is notorious. Unplug, spray contact cleaner, and repeatedly plug/unplug/replug. This connector has two circuits; the ITS and the microswitch. The microswitch is the last switch in line, which closes the solenoid. The second circuit is the ITS. Even if the solenoid closes, a bad connection can cause the cart to not run, even if the solenoid clicks.

[LukeL]

I don’t see any plug – just these connectors. I wonder if somebody replaced it at one time?




Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[yurtle]

I would DEFINITELY suspect those. In fact, I'd either replace with butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink them. They serve no purpose, beyond initial fabrication.

[LukeL]

They are making good connection- do you still this that’s the problem? I’m getting solenoid click and then nothing.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[yurtle]

Place the rear of the cart on jack stands, and press the throttle with one hand, and wiggle the spade connectors you pictured, to confirm this is the problem. This is located in close proximity to batteries, which give off corrosive gasses, and is exposed to water, if driving in wet conditions. It also gets wet when you clean the batteries.

[LukeL]

Ok. I’ll do that soon. I’m welding up a new battery tray in the meantime.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[yurtle]

Intermittent problems are very hard to find. If you look at a wiring diagram, most wires and connections are fairly secure, meaning if you aren't wiggling wires, they "shouldn't" change from working to not working. Jack stands helps eliminate road vibration.

If it starts not working, try to follow from pack +, reed switch, etc. to see where you lose power. The last switch is the throttle box microswitch. One of the spade connectors is from the key switch to the throttle micorswitch, the other is from the throttle MS to the solenoid.