Battery conversion from lithium to lead acid

[hyper1]

I still think he wanted to know what to do to return them back to lead acid. I think the trolling was done by those who supports the lithium battery swaps. So why cant we just answer his question? "He did NOT ask why I should keep lithium?"

[Rickochet]

Originally Posted by Hilltop Ken

I purchased a 2208 EZGO RXV without batteries. I have been told that it had been converted to lithium by the previous owner. How do I convert back to regular lead acid batteries?

When I did my Lith conversion on my PDS all I did was to change the batteries. The cart doesn't care which battery chemistry, just the voltage. The charger is another story. The lith pack uses a different charger. I did disconnect the OEM charger port and plug my lith charger into an electric cord.

It is possible that all you have to do is to add new FLA batts and acquire the proper charger if the OEM battery rack was not removed. But, I am not familiar with RXV's and don't know what might have been altered during the Lith conversion if anything. I would recommend taking it to a dealer and let them check it out.

[E36Racer]

Originally Posted by hyper1

I still think he wanted to know what to do to return them back to lead acid. I think the trolling was done by those who supports the lithium battery swaps. So why cant we just answer his question? "He did NOT ask why I should keep lithium?"

I think you missed post #22.

In short, put lead acid batteries in it and hook them up, make sure you have the correct charger. But as noted in post #22, depending on how the battery tray or charging socket wiring was altered there may be a few more steps but we can’t tell without more info and some pics.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Rickochet

When I did my Lith conversion on my PDS all I did was to change the batteries. The cart doesn't care which battery chemistry, just the voltage. The charger is another story. The lith pack uses a different charger. I did disconnect the OEM charger port and plug my lith charger into an electric cord.

It is possible that all you have to do is to add new FLA batts and acquire the proper charger if the OEM battery rack was not removed. But, I am not familiar with RXV's and don't know what might have been altered during the Lith conversion if anything. I would recommend taking it to a dealer and let them check it out.

With an RXV, it can be more involved... An RXV controller will not like the increased voltage range of a lithium pack. It's not so much the higher end that is as much of a problem, it is the low end. Default programming on the RXV controller has a Undervolt Cutoff setting of 40 VDC, and a lithium pack can still have usable capacity below that. Not just anyone can reprogram that setting(dealers cannot), or the Nominal pack voltage setting (settable from 24 VDC to 96 VDC). Those values might have been changed, which could affect operation with a stock 48 VDC nominal lead acid pack. If changed, it would certainly have an impact upon the indash RXV SOC guage. There are also settings for calibrating the accuracy of that RXV SOC guage to your packs capacity.

As for the charger, not all chargers are chemistry specific, some use voltage setpoints. I used my existing 1500W onboard charger for my lithium pack. The same charger that I used for my flooded lead acid batteries. So it really depends upon the charger that the OP has.

[nickdalzell1]

Is it that bad to just avoid taking the chance? Or do you actually like playing Russian roulette? The Galaxy Note 7 was not that long ago.

Edit: Seems my post was a bit late. Browser did not refresh until i had posted, then i noticed it is now 4 pages long

[bronsonj]

Ha, ok. Really great thread! I finally opened it and read it front to back, almost like a drama filled novel.

OP, converting back can be done but without more info NOBODY can really help you. Pics are a good place to start.

The only Lithium chemistry to avoid is Cobalt, everything else commercially available is fine and doesn't have the Samsung fire issue.

Lead acid works just fine too. If you are going to 'roll your own' pack the cost can be really close between a lithium pack and a lead acid. If you are going to buy something pre-done by a company, lithium will absolutely cost more.

The conversion to lithium can be really simple or more complex. So the conversion back can be just as simple or just as complex. Reprogramming a controller that is considered non-programmable for most is complex. Dropping FLA batteries into an open tray and buying a set of wires is not so much.

Good luck whichever way you go!

[nickdalzell1]

I would rather just play it safe and avoid the issue whether caused by cobalt or some other chemical we are not quite aware of yet.

If it were possible, I would buy only smartphones/tablets/laptops that had NiMH batteries. They were safe and some were more rugged/able to take abuse, and were replaceable--no planned obsolescence or e waste.

I did find my old tools that used Ni Cad and NiMH and started using them again, and they sure do work much better than the liberal oriented tools that kept shutting down because oh the battery is too hot, you are working the tool too hard boo hoo. Milwaukee can go where the sun does not shine.

[orangeman6]

There’s a bunch of good info in this thread, and I generally agree that it’s ok to veer a bit away from a specific question when the info is pertinent, but.....