TXT just quit running

[jfw432]

So I'm finally getting around to figuring out why my golf cart just quit working. I drove it a short distance one morning and then later that afternoon, it wouldn't do anything. I've got the Alltrax 48500 controller, a Bandit motor, and have upgraded to 48v. When I hit the accelerator pedal, I can hear the solenoid clicking in both fwd and rev but the cart won't move. The voltage is about 50.8v.

Any ideas on where I should start troubleshooting?

[orangeman6]

Is the alltrax flashing an error code?

[nickdalzell1]

I'll bet the solenoid is bad. It will click but the flash code will falsely say low battery voltage. We replaced three on a DCS lifted car with an XCT.

[jfw432]

Originally Posted by nickdalzell1

I'll bet the solenoid is bad. It will click but the flash code will falsely say low battery voltage. We replaced three on a DCS lifted car with an XCT.

That's a good place to start. I'll check voltage across the solenoid tonight and see if that's it.


If my old laptop still works, I can hook it up to the controller but I'll have to find it and inevitably recharge it.

[jfw432]

Well the first night I checked, the cart worked again so testing was kinda silly. Went to drive it the next day and it was dead again so testing began. I'm getting 53.2v on the battery pack side of the solenoid and 52.8v on the opposite side of the solenoid when it's not active. When it is activated, it will jump up to 53.2v to match the battery pack. The solenoid doesn't have continuity until open though so that voltage on the opposite side seems weird to me. When I push the throttle and activate the solenoid, I noticed the controller would blink green but I didn't realize until now that there is a blink code so I didn't count them.

I did bang on the solenoid while pushing the throttle a bit and it lurched forward about 2 feet before stopping again so my thought process is the solenoid isn't making good contact internally and I ordered a new one last night. Hopefully that fixes it.

[yurtle]

Since it sounds like you have a series, eliminate the Molex connector on the throttle cable. Also bypass the reed switch, though it's not usually intermittent.

[jfw432]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Since it sounds like you have a series, eliminate the Molex connector on the throttle cable. Also bypass the reed switch, though it's not usually intermittent.

Thanks. I'll try those things. I know the reed switch is working for now bc I screwed that up running a different charger and bypassing the original charger connectors. Might be time limited though.

[jfw432]

Turns out the solenoid wasn't bad. Found this quote from another thread. Looks like my ITS switch is reading low which was confirmed with my laptop and the alltrax software. ITS switch only gives 2.7v at most but gives 12v when I check the wires so I'll order another one.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

There are high throttle over range and under range and low throttle over range and under range errors. The wording of all of them is confusing as to their exact meaning, but as a group they mean the voltage between the black and white wires that connect the ITS sensor in the pedal box to the controller, is outside the normal range of 10V with the pedal up and 6V with the pedal on the floor.

There are only three possible sources for these errors. (listed in alphabetical order)
1. Controller
2. ITS Sensor
3. Wiring that connects 1. and 2. together.

To measure the voltage between the black and white wires, the SR controller has to be powered up. It powers up when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click, or when a computer is connected to it via the USB cable.

What is the voltage between the black and white wires with pedal up and pedal down? (Pedal up= 10V & pedal down = 6V)

What is the voltage on SR terminals the black and white wires connect to when the wires are disconnected. (Should be at least 10V)

With the black and white wires connected to the SR controller, but disconnected from the ITS Sensor in the pedal box, what is the voltage between the loose black and white wires in the pedal box. (Should be at least 10V)

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by jfw432

Turns out the solenoid wasn't bad. Found this quote from another thread. Looks like my ITS switch is reading low which was confirmed with my laptop and the alltrax software. ITS switch only gives 2.7v at most but gives 12v when I check the wires so I'll order another one.

A bad Molex can cause erratic readings at the ITS. It can also prevent the solenoid from closing. The four wires are ITS and throttle microswitch, and it can be very intermittent. Mine would need wiggling once or twice a year, until I eliminated it. Sometimes the ITS wires would go "bad", and sometimes the throttle MS would.

Next time it acts up, read the LED blink code. Manuals with blink code are available on Alltrax' website.

[yurtle]

Can you confirm which drive type you have?

nickdalzell1 mentioned DCS, while you said you have an Alltrax 48500, which I just assumed was an SR = series.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html