Kill Switch for RXV

[RebelStryker]

RXV Gurus;
Working on adding a kill switch to my RXV and want to get a consensus on which wire to break to make the connection. I'm thinking the yellow wire that goes from the keyswitch to the B- solenoid is the way to go. Yea or nay?

Thanks!

[cgtech]

Just take the jumper plug off thats on the bottom of the cup holder. Cart wont drive without it. If this is not suitable for you, i would interrupt one of the small-terminal activation wires to the solenoid.

[RebelStryker]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Just take the jumper plug off thats on the bottom of the cup holder. Cart wont drive without it. If this is not suitable for you, i would interrupt one of the small-terminal activation wires to the solenoid.

Looking to do something a little more secure than just removing the run plug. After doing a little more research, I've found a couple of examples similar to what I want to do. Have you ever installed the factory keypad ignition kit in an RXV? The instructions are a little unclear, but it looks like they are breaking the positive connection at the keyswitch which I believe is the red wire. The RXV wiring diagram shows the yellow wire I mentioned in my original post - it goes from the key switch through a fuse to B- on the solenoid. This would be one of the small wires that you referenced in your post, I'm guessing.

I'm just trying to go about this using the least intrusive manner possible as I'm aware that RXV wiring is particular. Thanks for the input!

[HiTechRedNeck]

BE CAREFUL....
interrupting the solenoid wires should be safe.
Key pad might draw too much power....i am Unsure of this mod.
RXV wiring should be treated like digital signal wiring NOT POWER wiring.
EASY to screw up-- $$$$$$$$ to fix

[cgtech]

The keypad is available from ezgo.

[RebelStryker]

I've done a little more research and need some educated opinions. According to a tech I got on the phone at E-Z-GO, I should be safe breaking the red wire on the back of the keyswitch. It is simply battery positive that engages the solenoid and sends an input signal to the controller for forward or reverse according to keyswitch position. With this wire disconnected from the keyswitch, the cart will not power on nor run.

A little more background as to what I am trying to accomplish - I want to use a remote keyless entry type of device to disable the cart. I park in town a lot and am looking for a little more security. I know I could do a high security keyswitch of some type or a hidden toggle switch, but I like the idea of the remote.

I have a keyless entry that can provide a positive or negative pulse output. I have a 12 volt auxillary battery on board.The relays are standard automotive relays. The SSR is a Crydom ED10D5 (not 100% sure that 5 amps is enough so I will probably get a higher capacity SSR). I intend to add a blinking LED driven by the output of the latching relay.

Any thoughts on the drawing? Do I need any more diodes in the circuit to protect the components?

Thanks for looking!

[HiTechRedNeck]

Hi Looks good!

Not criticism--Trying to help--

1) is diode around factory controller in original circuit?
2) why would you need a high amp SSR?
3)Is SSR rated for 48V?
4) you could use a NORMAL relay instead of SSR. -- ?Eliminating need for additional diode?

Using separate/accessory battery to power kill circuit is great idea.

Key switch power is signal voltage only not POWER for controller.
Using regular relay would simulate a key switch eliminating possible problems with SSR




Again use care when messing around with RXV wire harness -- be sure to place in tow and dis connect batteries!

[cgtech]

I assume that you do not have a dc/dc convertor for your 12v stuff. Disconnecting the keyswitch input is pretty safe for the cart electronics. The only problem i see with this is if you leave anything 12v on and drain the battery, you are stranded with plenty of power for the 48v stuff.

[RebelStryker]

Originally Posted by HiTechRedNeck

Hi Looks good!

Not criticism--Trying to help--

1) is diode around factory controller in original circuit?
2) why would you need a high amp SSR?
3)Is SSR rated for 48V?
4) you could use a NORMAL relay instead of SSR. -- ?Eliminating need for additional diode?

Using separate/accessory battery to power kill circuit is great idea.

Key switch power is signal voltage only not POWER for controller.
Using regular relay would simulate a key switch eliminating possible problems with SSR




Again use care when messing around with RXV wire harness -- be sure to place in tow and dis connect batteries!

Your input is appreciated!

1) the diode is for suppression recommended by the SSR manufacturer
2) the yellow wire off the back of the key switch I believe has a 10a fuse from the factory. The red wire is tied to yellow in every position of the key switch to energize the solenoid.
3) yes, up to 80 vdc
4) initial idea was to use SSR to eliminate risk of contact bounce due to vibration. Might rethink that and go all electromechanical for simplicity.

I might argue a little with you about key switch wires being signal wires. :-) Red wire comes directly from battery positive, yellow wire goes to solenoid coil to energize the coil, the other two are inputs to the controller to tell it to go into forward or reverse. I WON'T argue that mishandling the wiring on an RXV can be costly!

Thanks for your help!

[RebelStryker]

Originally Posted by cgtech

I assume that you do not have a dc/dc convertor for your 12v stuff. Disconnecting the keyswitch input is pretty safe for the cart electronics. The only problem i see with this is if you leave anything 12v on and drain the battery, you are stranded with plenty of power for the 48v stuff.

Good point! The remote module will be hot all the time on the aux battery but the current drain should be light. I will definitely have to keep an eye on that. I am also likely going to hide a heavy duty toggle switch to bypass the SSR in case of emergency.

Thanks for your input!