Need help installing battery meter

[N.SHIFT]

Originally Posted by Sergio

"Will remain" or "Does remain"?

I am trying to explain the voltage You read is not normal, it could be caused by a capacitor on the switched side of the key switch, which means the voltage will go OFF after a few seconds or you have a wiring problem that could cause a discharge.

If You have a chance to answer the other questions we can try to help you find out which is the issue, if any, with your cart key switch wiring.

I’ll check if power drops to zero on the blue switch wire as soon as I get back to the cart. Hopefully that’s the case.

[N.SHIFT]

Sorry for the delay. Sometimes life takes over. But, the voltage at the blue wire stays a constant 15 volts with key off and 48 volts with key on. The voltage does not drop off. Any other ideas?

[Sergio]

Your headlight may be using 2 batteries and it is not connected right.

Can you see what battery posts they used to get power to the headlights?

[N.SHIFT]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Your headlight may be using 2 batteries and it is not connected right.

Can you see what battery posts they used to get power to the headlights?

The headlights does use 2 batteries. I’ll be back to the cart in about a hr. I’ll take pics of how’s it’s wired up.

[N.SHIFT]

Blue wire is on positive of one battery and black on negative of another battery

[Sergio]

That is what I suspected, it is amazing how often we see that mistake here a BGW, and typically performed by so called "dealers".

You need to remove both of those wires, the blue and the black one.

Unfortunately they screwed up the black wire by cutting the mating bullet connector that should have gone into that yellow female bullet connector.

You really should have a 48v->12v reducer unless you are only planning in using your headlights for emergencies and not regularly.

The black wire needs to be connected to the pack negative battery post.

That is the battery on the driver side with the cable that goes through the OBC on the back.

The Blue wire should be connected where the black wire is currently connected or +16v as measured from pack negative.

That will solve you voltage issue when the key switch is OFF.

Please remove that wing nut and replace with the appropriate stainless steel nut.

[N.SHIFT]

So I have to use a 48 volt to 12 volt converter to run headlights? Is the item in the picture what I need?

[N.SHIFT]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is what I suspected, it is amazing how often we see that mistake here a BGW, and typically performed by so called "dealers".

You need to remove both of those wires, the blue and the black one.

Unfortunately they screwed up the black wire by cutting the mating bullet connector that should have gone into that yellow female bullet connector.

You really should have a 48v->12v reducer unless you are only planning in using your headlights for emergencies and not regularly.

The black wire needs to be connected to the pack negative battery post.

That is the battery on the driver side with the cable that goes through the OBC on the back.

The Blue wire should be connected where the black wire is currently connected or +16v as measured from pack negative.

That will solve you voltage issue when the key switch is OFF.

Please remove that wing nut and replace with the appropriate stainless steel nut.

If I move both blue and black wires to the terminals you say that would put both wires on a negative battery post. Correct? My lights will work that way? Right now they are connected to a positive post and negative post and controlled off a toggle switch. The lights work regardless off position off ignition switch. I follow what you saying just trying to make since of it. Ty for your input

[Sergio]

If You notice the battery post with the wing-nut where your black wire is currently connected is electric the same as the positive post on the other battery on the drivers side.

I mentioned to connect the positive in that post since it is easier for the wire to reach.

I don't have experience with those cheap voltage converters, but it would be better than taping 2 batteries.

If You decide to add more accessories later, our site sponsors carry better (more expensive as well) voltage converters that are controlled by the key switch, some models even have constant and switched power in case you add a radio that needs it to retain settings.

If You do add a 48v->12v converter, make sure the negative power gets connected to that yellow bullet connector and not the pack negative battery.

[N.SHIFT]

Can you look at this picture and see if I’m following you correctly?im not buying the cheap converter I was just making sure I even knew what one was lol. But that’s what your referring to correct? Also, if I put in a converter, the lights gets get wired into the converter and not the batteries like they are now. Correct? Thank you for all your help