87 club car ds electrical questions

[milspec]

So as stated this is in regards to the old school club car Electric ds. I know it is a 36v system and I pretty much have my head around how the entire process works. However, with my new acquisition the previous owner modified it(rigged)...

How important is the solenoid that is closest to the drivers side...the one that has the large(6gauge) WHITE wire going to the motor not to the F&R switch?

Reason I ask is they took that one out and the white wire is bolted directly to the bus bar, the 2 smaller wires are taped and just hanging there. The cart seams to drive fine, so far. I have worked on a few of these old carts and it seams to function just like the rest of them.

I have read that it is supposed to be the primary solenoid and with out it all other solenoids are "hot"(powered) all the time, I just don't see how if the wire from that one goes to the motor, not the switch.

[milspec]

55 views and no response.....isn't there anybody here that is knowledgeable enough on these old time carts?

I just want to make sure I don't go burning this thing up or fry other parts, especially after I went through so much work making this thing so nice. I also don't want to buy parts I don't need to, I might upgrade this thing latter...just don't have the funds to do everything right now.

[radelon]

Maybe attach some pics?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[milspec]

Here are the pics of what I am asking about, as you can see there is a solenoid missing, the white wire is one of the new ones I put on the cart. Actually had to replace a bunch of the battery wires, I didn't trust them, so I am replacing all the main wires. Been making 4 gauge wires to replace everything, I know should have went to 2 gauge, but already bought all the stuff and started before I read all the stuff about upgrading.

As I said I am more than likely going to upgrade everything, possibly to run 48 volt. but not right away all at once.

So do I really need to replace the missing solenoid or is it gonna be ok like it is till I start upgrading those parts out(might not be until next year)

[milspec]

Here is my cart. As you can see this is why I don't want to burn it up, and also why my budget is a little thin!!

I have a bunch of time building this thing.

[milspec]

pics didn't attach to above post

[LukeL]

Nice looking cart. That first solenoid supplies power to the motor as soon as the pedal is pressed, and allows power to the other solenoids. I’ve seen it bypassed a on a lot, but I probably wouldn’t do it myself. They are cheap and easily replaced.

As far as hurting it, I don’t know. I’ve seen a lot of resistor cart meltdowns, so I’d play it safe.

Also- if one of those other solenoids ever fails while driving (trust me, they do!) you will have quite a surprise. The brick fence at the end of my driveway is now gone... that was my first resistor cart and I was in reverse!

ScottyB’s upgrade kit is the best thing you’ll ever do for that cart. cartsunlimited.net

Luke


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[Lochlin]

Ahhhhhhhhh, I didn't know that was a resistor cart of which I have several vintage ones ('57 Worthington, '67 Pargo, '68 Cushman). Even though these are all different brands most resistor carts are pretty much the same. As Luke mentions, you're missing solenoid would be the primary one. It will either activate with the key switch or the initial pedal depress depending on schematic. Those serve as "safety" features so that two things have to happen for the cart to move rather than just one thing happening. Additionally, if a speed solenoid ever got stuck closed the circuit will be cut but the main solenoid opening (or vice versa). Heck, my Worthington never had a main solenoid from the factory. They can be bypassed but you are bypassing a safety feature, minimal as it is. Just last year my Cushman's low speed solenoid was stuck closed but the cart was still safe as the main solenoid was cutting current. I noticed that the cart was starting on the click of the main solenoid which why I knew there was an issue.

It's been my experience that those coil resistors are pretty durable. That thing should be able to handle 48v as-is, depending on battery cable size.

Now, some carts use resistors with their top speed while some go with full-pack voltage for top speed (no resistors). With the former, you can connect your motor wire to different spots on the top speed resistor, essentially removing some coils, to get more ooomph as well. You can use a house ground clip for the connection.

[scottyb]

That is a most awesome build.
Did you know we make kits for resistor to solid state conversion?
This cart deserves it

[LukeL]

Originally Posted by scottyb

That is a most awesome build.

Did you know we make kits for resistor to solid state conversion?

This cart deserves it

I already told him about your kit! He needs one [emoji1303]


Club Car DS driver’s club #59