Troubleshooting question

[NoleFan4Ever]

You have jumpered out the MCOR, tested the inputs, and verified it works correctly when the solenoid is bypassed (this rules out a controller issue unless it is the low dropping out) My fear is since it did it with the MCOR jumpered, you may have a FET problem in the controller for supplying the 48v Neg.

And you are sure that when it stops, you are not getting the 48vdc across the 2 small terminals? (And you have to have the key on, Fwd selected, and pedal depressed.)

[Durney]

Called it a night, but yes voltage drops completely out on the smalls when it dies. Back at it tomorrow.

Thanks again guys.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Here is the test for the next time it quits. You must do it as described to determine if we are losing the Pos or the Neg...
At the solenoid small posts do the following:
(key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal slightly depressed)
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Pos Input)
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc (If not, we lost the Neg input)
If you are getting those then solenoid should be closing. If it is not, remove the wires from the 2 small posts and check the 2 posts resistance (ohms) across them. If none, the energizing coil is bad and the solenoid needs to be replaced. If the coil shows resistance, but the solenoid is not closing, tap on the side of it gently and see if it actuates, if it does not, then you will have to replace it.

[Durney]

Positive is ok , negative is dropping out to .5v.

Time for a solenoid. Anyway to bypass it and verify like i did before but STILL have full throttle?

[biphase]

Replace the solenoid. It only runs half speed when you bypass the solenoid because the controller thinks the solenoid is "welded" and it defaults to limp mode.

[NoleFan4Ever]

As stated in my previous post and biphase just mentioned again, you were in Limp mode before and is why you were at half speed.

I would not rule out a solenoid issue, BUT, the solenoid operates on 48vdc. So if it quit and you checked the inputs to the small posts and have the 48+ and not the 48- then it will not close in. That aligns more with a controller issue as the Neg is supplied thru the controller after the inputs are satisfied.

Here is another test to further drill down on the issue. Get you a length of 10g wire and run it from the main pack Neg to the small post that has the blue/white wire attached. Then if the cart runs without failure, you have lost the part of the controller that triggers the low (Neg) to close in the solenoid.

Let us know what happens....

[biphase]

I thought Durney had established in post #12 that the solenoid coil was being energized when he measured the voltage across the small terminals as "Both small terminals - .5v resting 55.9v pedaled"

[NoleFan4Ever]

His problem is intermittent so in post #22 I described the steps to take when it failed again to verify which input he was losing (the 48 + or the 48-). With it inoperable, he tested for the + side of the activation circuit and got pack voltage, but on the - (low) side of the circuit, he did not get the 48v Neg needed to close the energizing coil of the solenoid.

If it runs with the jumpered Neg in place, we will know it is an FET or part of the controller and he may need to PM you for some help or look into an Alltrax. If it does not properly run after that, then there was either an "Oops" in one of the tests he performed or there is a gremlin in town....

Sergio- Any ideas that we have missed?

[Durney]

Connected a 2ga cable from battery pack.main ground (the one that feeds the control box) to the small neg terminal (blue/wht) ran it up to speed (on the stands) and applied brake loading. Same failure.

Note: I did this with the control blue/wht. disconnected from the solen.

One thing I forgot to mention, the cart has always has a.strange.way of having to step on the accel. pedal 2 or 3 times if it sat with the key on for a period of time.... maybe the solenoid has always been borderline or is that a safety feature from.the controller?

Which solenoid to buy? I.see many option but like the "oe looking" one for ease of install.

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is a strange gremlin to say the least as that would have given you the Negative you were losing, but nothing wrong with trying a solenoid, I just hate not being able to pinpoint the issue first.

Look here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/solenoids for the solenoid of your choice.