DS problems

[Atrivett]

I have a 2002 club car DS. A few days ago in a stupid move I removed the dash without disconnecting the batteries. It fried the green wire from the switch to the solenoid. I could not find anything else burnt. I replaced the wire and the solenoid. Now, it will not run. The back tire tries to move but stops after a second. I can not hear the soleniod clicking. someone please tell me what I have blowned up. Thanks.

[WalterM6]

I think the likely place wound be the microswitch inside your MCOR or the multi step pot box. (whichever one you have).

[Atrivett]

First thing on my list for tomorrow will be checking the blue wire from the switch down to the micro switch. I’m hoping that is it. Thanks.

[NoleFan4Ever]

You are on the right track. The tires bump because there is a charge in the capacitors but then the solenoid fails to close and it can't move any further.

Positive inputs to your 48+ side of the solenoid.....(Key, FNR, MS Switch)

[Sergio]

I agree with the Solenoid not activating being the cause of the small movement at the wheels.

The Controller would not try to power the motor unless it got activation and since it uses the same positive activation circuit as the Solenoid, the issue is likely somewhere else.

The first question is, why and how did that wire fry?

The chassis should not have a connection to pack negative, so that wire needed a path to negative which means something else fried to complete the current path to pack negative.

I am going under the assumption You have a Series cart, make sure all the wires got placed properly on the new Solenoid.

Check the Solenoid diode for proper orientation as well, the stripped end goes toward the positive activation wire.

This diagram should match your cart if it has an MCOR:

[Atrivett]

I forgot to unhook the batteries. The green wire from the switch back to the soleniod fried. This was the only thing I saw that got fried. I replaced the solenoid, the MCOR and it is still just bumping a little and not running. The big resistor on top of the solenoid, is it directional? The diode was attached to the solenoid when I bought it. My next question is, could I have fried the on board computer? That was my next thing to fix. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Atrivett

-snip-
The big resistor on top of the solenoid, is it directional? No

Originally Posted by Atrivett

-snip-
My next question is, could I have fried the on board computer? It provides the Neg thru the yellow wire to the solenoid

Once you have all wires repaired/replaced. Start at your solenoid small posts and probe them to determine if you have lost either the 48+ or the 48- or both....

[Atrivett]

I’m not getting anything at the small post. If the OBC provides the negative to the solenoid, then it sounds like the computer is not letting the current complete the circuit and turn the solenoid on. Does this sound correct?

[Sergio]

You can disconnect the yellow wire from the solenoid small post and run a new wire from that solenoid small post directly to pack negative or controller B-.

That will by-pass the OBC lockout circuit.

I understood the pack was still connected when you removed the dashboard, but unless you placed the dashboard on top of the battery pack, the chassis itself should not have any connection whatsoever to any of the batteries.

The green wire on the back of the key switch needed to touch something to short, if it was the negative from the battery warning light, then it took off the OBC.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Atrivett

I’m not getting anything at the small post. If the OBC provides the negative to the solenoid, then it sounds like the computer is not letting the current complete the circuit and turn the solenoid on. Does this sound correct?

Yup, and as Sergio stated, a new wire to the B- will give you the Neg. As long as you have the Pos permissives met, you should get closure at the solenoid.