Electrical Problems - lighting

[ag4ever]

Also, your reverse buzzer (circled in yellow) is installed backwards, this is preventing the relay (circled in green) from being mounted to the dash where I circled it in green. The relay should be screwed to the dash in this location.

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by awhisnant

So, the only assumption - do you think - is the guy removed the reducer? I read on some parts sites that the lights could work with 16v. Just trying to be positive that the guy isn't a thief, do you think it's possible that it worked connected to 2 batteries (16-18v) and they blew because he reconnected them incorrectly? We've had the cart for about 3 years and never had a problem until this guy looked at it.

From the looks of the road grime, I doubt it had a reducer.

I bet he just connected the wires wrong.

It is very possible that the lights could run on 16v. Most auto lights will work on 14v + as that is what most alternators output. Most electronics have a safe range of voltage they will work in. I don’t recommend running it on 16v though. Overdriving the lights could result in diminished life.

[WalterM6]

Wouldn't that be 24v? I measure 16v on the 2nd

Those two points are electrical the same. If you notice you're just measuring on opposite ends of the wire. Ag4ever is correct that there isn't any voltage reducer or any related wiring. My best guess is that you were running the lights off of the straight 16v until that guy fixed for you and moved that wire. What I would suggest doing is remove the wire from the 32v connection and connect it to the 16v connection. The one I had circled. Then measure the voltage at the lights. Or you could go to the Auto Parts store and get a cheap halogen replacement for testing.

[mrgolf]

Walterm6 could his cart have an older style 16-12 volt reducer under the cart on the frame, the one that is about 10x3 and 1 inch or so thick

[WalterM6]

Mrgolf. I only know of one style of 16-12v reducer, the one I posted the picture for earlier. Either case the wiring isn't there for it. It obviously isn't a factory job.

[mrgolf]

This is what I was talking about.


image.jpeg

[WalterM6]

Mrgolf, He very well could have one of those. With all of the wire splices by the #1 battery no telling what's in there. Notice it goes from a fused red wire spliced to a blue wire then under the fil caps.

[mrgolf]

Those are usually mounted under the cart on the frame rail.

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

Mrgolf, He very well could have one of those. With all of the wire splices by the #1 battery no telling what's in there. Notice it goes from a fused red wire spliced to a blue wire then under the fil caps.

I doubt he has the earlier style reducer. His wiring looks exactly like mine did. I had a blue wire with a ring terminal terminated with a female spade connected to a male spade terminated to a blue wire spliced to a red fuse holder spliced to a blue wire going to the harness at the front. The black wire was a bullet connector going to a splice after the ground cable went thru the OBC current sensor.

In the front of mine was a connector splice that installed between the 2 molex connectors I circled. That is where the 16v to 12v reducer installs.

I pulled the voltage reducer and installed a voltage converter in my battery compartment and fed the original blue and black wires 12v from the voltage converter. I personally think that is a better way to power the lights than running them of 2 of the 6 batteries. Running on 2 of the 6 batteries will eventually cause them to be lower voltage than the other 4, unless you physically remove the batteries and rotate them in the cart so you use a different 2 for the lights every few months.

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by mrgolf

This is what I was talking about.


Attachment 176678

Something does not add up with that reducer:

Max watts 125
Max amps 28

That would mean it is running at under 5 volts?