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Old 12-30-2018, 08:04 PM   #11
Captkonradb@aol.com
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

That’s a good idea about the stray voltage, Would checking it with a small resistor in the path work?
The battery pack is less than a month old but I’m sure the motor could use a good cleaning inside.
The results of the above mentioned test on the resistor were that it does still show 240 ohms of resistance when measured removed from the solenoid, but only showing about 3 tenths of a volt in drop measuring from battery side to controller side. (50.3vdc and 50.1vdc respectively). Not as much of a drop as he ask thinking it should be, but I dismissed this because of the reading matched the bands on the resistor. And no drop after the solenoid closes.
I came back to edit this as after writing the message above, I went back to the cart and turned the key on, FnR switch in F and the battery light glowed for a second or so and then I depressed the go pedal and it started to move! But them when I tried it again, it wouldn’t move!
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:16 PM   #12
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

Try taking the negative wire off of solenoid that comes from obc and run a test wire from battery negative to the solenoid small stud leaving the original wire taped off sounds like the obc isn’t sending the solenoid a negative signal.
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:23 PM   #13
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

If the voltage did not rise (equalize) after you heard it close (click), then you have a problem with the bridge not pulling up as when it did, the controller side should have then read full pack voltage or the same as the battery side post.

Another way to do it is measure between the 2 large posts and you'll read about 1v or so. Once you hear the click and the solenoid closes in, you should now read 0v between the 2 large posts.... If not, the solenoid is bad.
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:05 PM   #14
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

RoxyFlash, thanks, the solenoid is definitely pulling in good. Disconnected the yellow and put a jumper from the neg side to the neg post on the coil of the solenoid and getting the same results.

NoleFan4ever, I did your voltage test across the large terminals and got some odd readings of voltage climbing from about .20vdc to almost a full volt while engaging the go pedal. So, I remembered that I have a new solenoid, in the box, and went ahead and pulled the old one and installed the new one with no different outcome. I then did a thorough bench test of the old solenoid and it checks out with .01 ohms of resistance when closed. And coil pulls in good and “snappy” each time.

I also pulled the FNR switch and took it completely apart figured out that it was loose because of the E-clip had slipped out of the grove, then cleaned and reassembled it, and it checks out good on the bench as well.

I’m still getting the stray voltage throughout the cart, it’s bad enough that I can light a 12vdc bulb running from the battery neg through the bulb and to the frame.
I would have thought the problem would have been relatively easy to find since it was a sudden bump that caused it but I’m starting to sweat...
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:16 PM   #15
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

The idea to measure the voltage on the pre-charge resistor (meter probes on each big post) is to make sure the Controller is not trying to activate without the solenoid closing.

If the Voltage on the resistor goes up when You depress the pedal, that means the controller got the signal to move, so the key switch, FNR micro-switch and pedal micro-switch are all working.

At that point if the Solenoid "clicked" that means the contacts are burnt and if the Solenoid did not "click" you are missing either the positive or the negative activation signals.

If you can light a 12v bulb from the frame it is more than just ghost voltage, try disconnecting the cable from Controller B+ to the Motor and placing the FNR in Neutral to isolate the Controller M- as it also has power.

Does the Voltage go away?

If so the issue is on the Motor itself.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:17 PM   #16
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

Sergio, disconnecting the cable at A-1 (motor) and D+ stopped all but 2.3 volts being read on the frame, and it promptly returned to 50 when reconnected.
Do you think this could be the root problem that was caused by hitting a bump in the road?
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:25 PM   #17
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

Yep, it looks that way, you may want to disconnect all cables from Motor (use 2 wrenches to prevent studs from turning inside the Motor) and do some resistance tests.

You should have Continuity:
From A1 to A2.
From S1 to S2.
You should have NO Continuity:
From A1 or A2 to S1 or S2.
From any posts (A1,A2,S1 or S2) and the Motor frame.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:34 PM   #18
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

Thanks a lot I really appreciate it, I bought some thin wrenches just for that task when I was making the new cables last month. I wasn’t going to spend all day soldering 2/0 cable ends just to twist off a motor terminal!
I’ll let you know what I find, I would think this is a good time to take a look at what might be making the noise back there during coasting/ deceleration, as well.
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:28 PM   #19
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

Well Sergio, I came up with GOOD continuity between A- 1&2 and the S- 1&2 respectively and NO continuity between the A’s and S’s.
But, showing between 50 and 100 ohms of resistance between A1 and the frame and A2 and the frame where the motor mounts at, and NO continuity between either “S” terminal and the frame.
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:44 PM   #20
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Default Re: 98’ Club Car 48v, sudden power loss.

It is time to take the motor out to inspect the brush holder and commutator area for anything loose or out of place.

You can also blow the carbon dust off and lightly sand the commutator area with fine sandpaper (don't use emery cloth as the dust is conductive).
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