Forward / reverse switch.

[nelly1052]

Just lost the forward/reverse switch on my 02 CC DS. No fun driving home from the golf course in reverse. Took it out and found one of the contacts was melted and the wires were hot. I known I need to replace the F/r switch but sure if this is normal or there is some other problem. All the wire connections look good. I guess these switches don't last forever.

[z06]

Originally Posted by nelly1052

Just lost the forward/reverse switch on my 02 CC DS. No fun driving home from the golf course in reverse. Took it out and found one of the contacts was melted and the wires were hot. I known I need to replace the F/r switch but sure if this is normal or there is some other problem. All the wire connections look good. I guess these switches don't last forever.

Just had a similar problem this past weekend. Was caused by solenoid sticking causing heavy arcing when switching from forward to reverse. Noticed cart would run with key off. Anyway check and see if any arcing when switching.

[oxfordlawn]

just make sure to spend the couple extra dollars and get the Heavy duty version...hmm a heavy duty version made by club car...think they were aware this was a problem area?

[bioniccartsandcustoms]

I have used the Factory Clubcar old style 36v F&R with good results. The material in this switch is better than the 48's. You do have to modify it a little. The reason a factory clubcar has to be used is because of the ramp on the f&r that triggers the micro switches. The CC has'em the aftermarket does not. I have run the 36 f&r on 48v, 650 axe with all settings maxed out, 8:1 gear, 22x11x10's, lifted, with a raptor motor. Speeds at 42mph. Never a failure. Pulled a 1,500lbs trailer on hard surface roads...Halloween hayride
fr.jpg
At bottom of F&R I use the Buss Bars off of the 48v switch to tie the bottom lugs together and then attach the white wire to one of bottom.
Blue wire to side, wire on front the same as others were on 48v. Make sure it is the 36v switch that has the ramp to trigger the micros. Change one wire at a time......makes it easier.

[oxfordlawn]

Remember most home mechanics dont have the extra buss bar and need a direct fit replacement. Do you feel the 36V version is better than the HD version on a 48V cart?? OR is the 48V HD switch made from the material of the 36V switch, and with a lrager contact area...and a direct replacement with no mods needed?? Im with the KISS theory. I find this 36Volt option interesting though

[bioniccartsandcustoms]

Usually on a customers cart I just pull the Buss Bars off the back of their old 48v switch. The material in the 36v f&r is alot denser that any of the 48v switches. I don't know if its because they were designed for the resistor coil carts that pull more amperage than the 48s. I just know after burning up a bunch of factory 48v and Heavy Duty 48v's not to mention the supposed 48v high amp heavy duty switches that actually come from china......These have always worked for me.

[oxfordlawn]

Originally Posted by bioniccartsandcustoms

Usually on a customers cart I just pull the Buss Bars off the back of their old 48v switch. The material in the 36v f&r is alot denser that any of the 48v switches. I don't know if its because they were designed for the resistor coil carts that pull more amperage than the 48s. I just know after burning up a bunch of factory 48v and Heavy Duty 48v's not to mention the supposed 48v high amp heavy duty switches that actually come from china......These have always worked for me.

I hear ya and good to know
You've been a wealth of good little info tips like these

[bioniccartsandcustoms]

Originally Posted by oxfordlawn

I hear ya and good to know
You've been a wealth of good little info tips like these

Thank You Sir

[GLEEMO]

Originally Posted by bioniccartsandcustoms

I have used the Factory Clubcar old style 36v F&R with good results. The material in this switch is better than the 48's. You do have to modify it a little. The reason a factory clubcar has to be used is because of the ramp on the f&r that triggers the micro switches. The CC has'em the aftermarket does not. I have run the 36 f&r on 48v, 650 axe with all settings maxed out, 8:1 gear, 22x11x10's, lifted, with a raptor motor. Speeds at 42mph. Never a failure. Pulled a 1,500lbs trailer on hard surface roads...Halloween hayride
Attachment 21322
At bottom of F&R I use the Buss Bars off of the 48v switch to tie the bottom lugs together and then attach the white wire to one of bottom.
Blue wire to side, wire on front the same as others were on 48v. Make sure it is the 36v switch that has the ramp to trigger the micros. Change one wire at a time......makes it easier.

UDFM

[nelly1052]

Thanks for all th info. Just replaced the F/R switch with a new HD Clubcar switch. Edgewater Carts in Orlando had it in stock for a great price. They said because I had the upgraded controller (500 amp), it probably overheated it. The micro switches were a little different on the new one. The last switch only had two prongs and the origional had three. (Black, white and green wire.) I used the micro switch from the old unit and it was fine.