Brakes not working after 6” lift and new tire

[Golfcartguido]

Hey guys I’ve got a 2011 club car precedent and Just installed a new 6” lift with 23” tires and now my brakes seem to be struggling.
I used:
“Heavy-Duty Club Car Precedent 6" Double A-Arm Lift Kit from Steeleng”

The brakes work, but I really have to slam the pedal and they occasionally “clunk”.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Rooster59]

It is possible what you are experiencing is the change related to larger tires. For lack of a better explanation, the much taller tires have greater leverage on the brakes now. It could take more pedal pressure to "feel" the same speed reduction as with stock tires.

Plus the taller tires allow you to go faster which takes more braking force.

But you should still check out any possible issue just to be safe.

[meimk]

The common issue is with the rear lift. The bottom plate that goes under the rear axle and holds the brake cable housing can either be a little loose, or it can be twisted a bit and change the distance the cables pull.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Take a look at the slack adjuster (brakes equalizer). It should be adjusted to 2 inches +/- 1/16" or you will not get the correct braking force.

Brake Slack Adjuster-Equalizer.jpg

[twilliams81]

If it’s still not enough you can always do the front disc brake add-on. It’s really not a hard modification and will give you all the stopping power you need


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[NoleFan4Ever]

And as TW81 was eluding to, no matter how well it is correctly set-up and adjusted, you will never get back to exactly what you had since you have changed the rolling inertia with the larger diameter tires and higher center of gravity....

[Golfcartguido]

thanks for all the suggestions, ill reply back once I get some time to look into it further

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Pull the floormat up and release the tension on the equalizer rod and remove it entirely. Remove the cotter pins from your brake clusters behind the wheel in the back of the car and free the cables. Go back up to the floormat area and make sure the brake cables operate in their full range of motion (by hand) without any drag or restrictions. If they do, hook them back up to the brake clusters. Re-install the equalizer and tighten it until you have the desired firmness on the pedal. I know a lot of guys go by specs, but I typically set them up how I like them. I allow for about an inch of travel in the pedal before they grab. I don't like having to push the pedal all the way down to the floor before I start feeling the brakes work. Anytime you install a 6" lift on a Precedent, it's a good idea to replace the driver's side brake cable with a new longer cable. The OEM cable is too short and often gets pulled too tight like a guitar string when you get it all bolted up. The shorter cable won't cause the issue you describe, but it will cause a pulsing feeling in your pedal while braking. It almost makes it feel like the pedal is pushing back against your foot while you're trying to brake. I use an OEM cable that is designed just for this purpose. It works great.

[cobarbosa84]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Pull the floormat up and release the tension on the equalizer rod and remove it entirely. Remove the cotter pins from your brake clusters behind the wheel in the back of the car and free the cables. Go back up to the floormat area and make sure the brake cables operate in their full range of motion (by hand) without any drag or restrictions. If they do, hook them back up to the brake clusters. Re-install the equalizer and tighten it until you have the desired firmness on the pedal. I know a lot of guys go by specs, but I typically set them up how I like them. I allow for about an inch of travel in the pedal before they grab. I don't like having to push the pedal all the way down to the floor before I start feeling the brakes work. Anytime you install a 6" lift on a Precedent, it's a good idea to replace the driver's side brake cable with a new longer cable. The OEM cable is too short and often gets pulled too tight like a guitar string when you get it all bolted up. The shorter cable won't cause the issue you describe, but it will cause a pulsing feeling in your pedal while braking. It almost makes it feel like the pedal is pushing back against your foot while you're trying to brake. I use an OEM cable that is designed just for this purpose. It works great.

This is EXACTLY what is happening to mine. (pedal pushing back). Did you use a longer OEM cable or were you able to fix it by adjusting the original cable it came with? And if its a new one where can I purchase the longer cable?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If you're using a 6" lift with a standard spring, you MIGHT be able to get away with the OEM cable. If you're installing heavy duty springs, you can forget it. You'll need the longer cable. I've started putting the longer cable on every build.

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...-car-precedent