Double 24 volt from 48v pack

[Mikewhit]

Series off the whole pack?

[pattyandrick]

Series is like this: positive off pack to positive on first light . Negative off 1st light to positive of 2nd light. Negative off 2nd light to negative on pack. Put the single pole switch and fuse inline

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

[Mikewhit]

Ah, gotcha.

[Fairtax4me]

Originally Posted by pattyandrick

Series is like this: positive off pack to positive on first light . Negative off 1st light to positive of 2nd light. Negative off 2nd light to negative on pack. Put the single pole switch and fuse inline

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

It "works" but it's far from ideal for lights. Each successive light down the line gets less amperage because the current flow in the circuit is regulated by the first light. This will affect light brightness, longevity of the light, and if one light burns out you lose BOTH lights. It's much better to have them wired in parallel if wiring multiple lights to one circuit.

The setup he's going to use isn't parallel. It's two individual series circuits, with each circuit drawing power from different banks of batteries. Using two light bars of identical design/wattage, the current draw between the two should be very close. Close enough that it won't matter for the batteries even in the long term.

You are using a smart charger, right? No OBC?

[pattyandrick]

Ad long as the lights are identical series will current is always the same through the entire circuit. If the lights are different resistances they would drop different volts. OHMS LAW

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

[pattyandrick]

True, if one fails it will shut down the whole circuit, Like old Chistmas lights, they were in series

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

[pattyandrick]

Christmas lights are a good example. 110 one volt lights needs 110 volts

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

[Mikewhit]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

It "works" but it's far from ideal for lights. Each successive light down the line gets less amperage because the current flow in the circuit is regulated by the first light. This will affect light brightness, longevity of the light, and if one light burns out you lose BOTH lights. It's much better to have them wired in parallel if wiring multiple lights to one circuit.

The setup he's going to use isn't parallel. It's two individual series circuits, with each circuit drawing power from different banks of batteries. Using two light bars of identical design/wattage, the current draw between the two should be very close. Close enough that it won't matter for the batteries even in the long term.

You are using a smart charger, right? No OBC?

Yes wiring in a Lester II onboard.

[Sergio]

Like Fairtax4me said, You cannot wire constant current drivers in series, connecting lights in series only works with resistive loads not active electronic circuits.

The DPST switch approach is the best option since you are no using the OBC.

[Roxyflash]

Being you all ready have 12 volt reducer i would use spst switch on dash turning on a 12 volt double pole relay one wire going out of dash down to battery area mount relay there.Wire the coil side of relay 12 volts then feed the common side of each side of relay 24 volts this way the relay carrys all the current not the swith.Each side of relay be 24 splitting the 48 bolt pack.