36v to12v converter issues and questions

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by TroutCart

Awesome! So as long as I don't have a significant voltage drop with both the radio and lights on, the converter is working correctly.

Thanks to everyone for their help. I never considered the indicator light on the fuse block as part of what was feeding voltage.

Glad to know I have a great resource here on this forum.

I'll do these checks tonight and post back if I find any issues.

Thanks again to everyone for their patience and helping me find the answer!!

[HaulnA$$]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

As Sergio said, The voltage you’re getting there (w fuse removed) is coming from the LED indicator circuit in the fuse block. That’s coming through the indicator LED which is why you’re seeing the drop.

Test voltage at the power wire coming into the fuse block from your converter. You should have 12v+. Do this test with lights and radio On if you can, and make sure the voltage stays above 12v. As long as it stays above 12v, I would say the converter is working properly.

“Open circuit” or “no load” voltage measurements can be confusing which is why whenever possible, voltage should be measures under at least a minimal or nominal load.

[Theflyinglineman]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Those cheapie reducers don't have the greatest record for quality. That said, I've installed a handful of them and they seem to work well enough for LED headlights and that's really all I use them for on my carts.

Could be as Walter said. When checking that voltage are you checking that with the lights and radio ON or with them off? Make sure your connections are good and you are indeed getting 36V or more at the converter when the converter is on and the lights, etc. are on. If the supply voltage is dropping that will indicate a poor connection. Don't check at the battery, check that at the wire terminal just beyond your crimp connection to ensure you are getting good voltage through the connectors. A poor connection there will show lower voltage on the wires after the crimps.

Next would be to isolate the 12V side and check voltage on the 12V + and - without being connected to anything else. Then connect it back to your accessories and see if there is a drop in voltage. That could either show a bad connection, or that the reducer can't handle the current demand. Try checking that with just the radio on, or just the lights on. If you have low voltage on the output side with neither on, or better yet with neither even connected, there's a good chance the reducer is faulty. Send it back.


I always run mine through a switch on the high voltage side, which turns the reducer off when it's not being used to avoid drawing current from the pack when the accessories are not needed. Also be sure you have fuses on BOTH the 36V positive, and 12V positive sides.

Something to consider is ScottyB's 30A converters with Remote turn-on and Radio memory functions. http://www.cartsunlimited.net/12v-reducers.html
High quality, excellent customer service, and you don't need to worry about these drawing down your pack as much when not in use, because they're switched on/off with the key. Plus it retains KA voltage for your radio so it doesn't reset every time you turn the cart off.


Thanks for the compliment on the bass! She was a beauty, and former PB that I almost lost in the lilly pads on a local lake. She only fueled an obsession.

I always run mine through a switch on the high voltage side, which turns the reducer off when it's not being used to avoid drawing current from the pack when the accessories are not needed. Also be sure you have fuses on BOTH the 36V positive, and 12V positive sides.

What kind off a switch do you use
Thanks
Adam