Micro switches or solenoid

NewtoBuggies · 01-21-2019, 06:05 PM

I have a 36 volt club car DS. Its early 90s model year. I have only 1 solenoid and two micro switches, 1 at f/r switch and 1 at v-glide (I think this is correct). It has a resistor coil. I recently changed the on off key switch and installed new batteries. It worked great for a couple weeks. Now it has power with the key off or on and it has to be taken out of f/r (out of gear) in order to not have it trying to roll in the direction of the f/r. Is it possible that I have a bad micro switch that has caused the solenoid to stick and now be bad? it is the second one I have had to put in and before I change it I figured I would ask instead of just swapping parts as that gets expensive. I would like to upgrade to Scotty B's kit in the future but for now dads on a budget but kids are antsy. Thanks for any help/suggestions.

scottyb · 01-21-2019, 06:45 PM

2 bad things have happened. 1st the solenoid is welded shut (closed/on). 2nd the throttle is buggered up and not sliding all the way down to zero.

Both of these things happen when you put the big tires on before the solid state conversion. It's a cart before the horse situation. The bigger tires require the motor to draw more amperage, more amperage makes more heat and pretty soon you have a melt down.

The solenoid is dangerous. Replace it. The throttle wiper is stuck inside the V glide. Open it up and sand the contacts smooth so it goes to zero again.... now it will run again but the same situation exists.
Note the slower you go the hotter it gets. so driving wide open throttle may make it last the longest but, unsafe for most uses.

Putting the original tires back on may be the best solution until you can upgrade.

I hope this helps

Fairtax4me · 01-21-2019, 06:58 PM

What was the reason for changing the key switch before?
Sounds like you have at least two different issues here.
The only reason it would “creep” is that the controller is getting a throttle signal when it should not.
Make sure there’s nothing jammed in the throttle pedal or linkage keeping it from returning all the way.

Your new key switch may have failed and the controller is staying on. There should only be two wires to it, correct? Unplug it, and check across the switch terminals for continuity with the key in both the On and Off positions.
If the switch checks out good, you may have a wire issue somewhere that is feeding voltage to the key input pin on the controller.

Knowing which controller you have may help. Look on the cover or the end panel and see if you can find a model number.

scottyb · 01-21-2019, 07:07 PM

He states "it has one ms on the F&R & a resistor coil" . I took that to mean it was a resistor coil drive system? I guess I could be wrong

Sergio · 01-21-2019, 07:12 PM

It is most likely the Solenoid, replace it.

You would have to have both the FNR and the pedal micro-switch bad in addition to the key switch being bad for the cart to move.

A welded solenoid would allow movement since the resistor cart always has current flowing once the solenoid closes.

If you have a diode across the Solenoid remove it, this is one of the few instances You want the contacts to release quickly.

NewtoBuggies · 01-21-2019, 07:29 PM

Thanks ScottyB. That is the case. It is a resistor cook cart but it only has 1 solenoid not a series of multiple solenoids as I have seen on some models. Not sure if it makes any difference.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NewtoBuggies · 01-21-2019, 07:32 PM

Sergio

Thanks for the insight. I changed the key switch because it had been sitting out in the weather for a bit before we got back to the project. It wouldn’t turn on until after I changed it. I was getting power to the key on one side but not getting it on the other regardless of the key in the on or off position. Changing the switch fixed this for me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Roxyflash · 01-21-2019, 07:58 PM

Post a picture of what you got for resistors and solenoid

Fairtax4me · 01-21-2019, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottyb

He states "it has one ms on the F&R & a resistor coil" . I took that to mean it was a resistor coil drive system? I guess I could be wrong

Probably is. I was thinking it was solid state, one solenoid with controller. But he says it has “a coil” so probably is the single solenoid with several coils type. A welded solenoid would make much more sense!

scottyb · 01-22-2019, 01:37 PM

He has confirmed 5 solenoid resistor cart. Since he has been doing some rewiring... I suggest he remove one of the 2 small wires at the solenoid first, if this halts the creeping cart you could have a good solenoid & a wiring error - it's
Possible

01-21-2019, 06:05 PM	#1
NewtoBuggies Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Central Florida Posts: 211	Micro switches or solenoid I have a 36 volt club car DS. Its early 90s model year. I have only 1 solenoid and two micro switches, 1 at f/r switch and 1 at v-glide (I think this is correct). It has a resistor coil. I recently changed the on off key switch and installed new batteries. It worked great for a couple weeks. Now it has power with the key off or on and it has to be taken out of f/r (out of gear) in order to not have it trying to roll in the direction of the f/r. Is it possible that I have a bad micro switch that has caused the solenoid to stick and now be bad? it is the second one I have had to put in and before I change it I figured I would ask instead of just swapping parts as that gets expensive. I would like to upgrade to Scotty B's kit in the future but for now dads on a budget but kids are antsy. Thanks for any help/suggestions.

01-21-2019, 06:45 PM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,418	Re: Micro switches or solenoid 2 bad things have happened. 1st the solenoid is welded shut (closed/on). 2nd the throttle is buggered up and not sliding all the way down to zero. Both of these things happen when you put the big tires on before the solid state conversion. It's a cart before the horse situation. The bigger tires require the motor to draw more amperage, more amperage makes more heat and pretty soon you have a melt down. The solenoid is dangerous. Replace it. The throttle wiper is stuck inside the V glide. Open it up and sand the contacts smooth so it goes to zero again.... now it will run again but the same situation exists. Note the slower you go the hotter it gets. so driving wide open throttle may make it last the longest but, unsafe for most uses. Putting the original tires back on may be the best solution until you can upgrade. I hope this helps

01-21-2019, 06:58 PM	#3
Fairtax4me Bonafide Nincompoop Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Charlottesburg Va Posts: 8,987	Re: Micro switches or solenoid What was the reason for changing the key switch before? Sounds like you have at least two different issues here. The only reason it would “creep” is that the controller is getting a throttle signal when it should not. Make sure there’s nothing jammed in the throttle pedal or linkage keeping it from returning all the way. Your new key switch may have failed and the controller is staying on. There should only be two wires to it, correct? Unplug it, and check across the switch terminals for continuity with the key in both the On and Off positions. If the switch checks out good, you may have a wire issue somewhere that is feeding voltage to the key input pin on the controller. Knowing which controller you have may help. Look on the cover or the end panel and see if you can find a model number.

01-21-2019, 07:07 PM	#4
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,418	Re: Micro switches or solenoid He states "it has one ms on the F&R & a resistor coil" . I took that to mean it was a resistor coil drive system? I guess I could be wrong

01-21-2019, 07:12 PM	#5
Sergio Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 9,329	Re: Micro switches or solenoid It is most likely the Solenoid, replace it. You would have to have both the FNR and the pedal micro-switch bad in addition to the key switch being bad for the cart to move. A welded solenoid would allow movement since the resistor cart always has current flowing once the solenoid closes. If you have a diode across the Solenoid remove it, this is one of the few instances You want the contacts to release quickly.

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01-21-2019, 07:29 PM	#6
NewtoBuggies Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Central Florida Posts: 211	Re: Micro switches or solenoid Thanks ScottyB. That is the case. It is a resistor cook cart but it only has 1 solenoid not a series of multiple solenoids as I have seen on some models. Not sure if it makes any difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-21-2019, 07:32 PM	#7
NewtoBuggies Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Central Florida Posts: 211	Re: Micro switches or solenoid Sergio Thanks for the insight. I changed the key switch because it had been sitting out in the weather for a bit before we got back to the project. It wouldn’t turn on until after I changed it. I was getting power to the key on one side but not getting it on the other regardless of the key in the on or off position. Changing the switch fixed this for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

01-21-2019, 07:58 PM	#8
Roxyflash Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Quad cities Posts: 334	Re: Micro switches or solenoid Post a picture of what you got for resistors and solenoid

01-22-2019, 01:37 PM	#10
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,418	Re: Micro switches or solenoid He has confirmed 5 solenoid resistor cart. Since he has been doing some rewiring... I suggest he remove one of the 2 small wires at the solenoid first, if this halts the creeping cart you could have a good solenoid & a wiring error - it's Possible

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