2010 CC DS throwing main drop out fault

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I know we spoke on the phone, but I'm gonna leave a comment here so I can follow this thread. I can't wait to find out what is causing this issue.

[twilliams81]

Changed out the motor cables today and still no change. Changed out the solenoid again and it stopped throwing the main coil fault as soon as the key switch was turned but still would only run normal with 75% pedal depressed and as soon as I went 100% then it triggered the main dropout fault and shut the cart down. I think I’m going to let someone else have a crack at it; I think I’ve got about as far as I can. I’ll let you know what comes about it though.


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[NoleFan4Ever]

This is an all-time high for me in regards to an undetermined anomaly....

[twilliams81]

Same here and a shot to the ol ego [emoji2361]


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[Fairtax4me]

So to sort of summarize this.
You've replaced:
Controller
Motor
Motor Cables
Main Solenoid
Main Wire Harness
MCOR
Added Diodes at the Tow Run switch?

Still getting faults for Main Dropout, and Open Armature.

Scanner still shows voltage fluctuations.

The scanner showing these varying voltages may be an important point. Where does the Controller get the displayed voltage from?
Is there any part of the electrical system related to the controller inputs that is NOT part of the Main harness? Is there a poor connection or bad wiring in another harness or cable, that's causing a voltage backup, or loss of voltage, that might affect the controller voltage readout?

[twilliams81]

Everything you listed minus adding a diode to the run/tow switch....it’s a brand new harness; was I suppose to add one to it? The handheld is showing these voltage valleys/spikes but my regular meter does NOT..not sure about any other harnesses other than he run tow switch or the OBC harness but that shouldn’t play any factor in it right?


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[Sergio]

It makes it harder to troubleshoot since new information keeps appearing out of nowhere like:

stopped throwing the main coil fault as soon as the key switch was turned

The controller should have no reason or way to test for that condition when you turn the key ON, that could only happen after the pedal is pressed, the Controller Verifies there is less than approximately 5v difference between B+ and KSI voltage (meaning no pre-charge failure) it then activates the solenoid by providing the negative side to the coil.

The controller then checks to see if the voltage at B+ increased, if it did not, it assumes the Solenoid failed.

If that test passes and later the voltage at B+ becomes lower than KSI, the controller generates a "main drop out error" since it did not instruct the Solenoid to release.

Based on that last information, make sure there is only one cable on the Controller side of the Solenoid, the 12ga red wire should be on the battery side.

Make sure there is no additional wires on Controller M- by mistake.

Also keep in mind the "main drop-out error" that the harness diode fixes is a Controller vintage issue so depending what revision number controller you are using you may be re-introducing the problem.

[twilliams81]

I apologize for the omission it was something that just recently noticed by that was indeed happening. Any idea which model controller I would need to not be re-introducing the same problem? This one is a 1510A-5251 serial number 426828


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[Sergio]

Any information, specially codes or odd behaviors you notice may be helpfull.

The only information I have seen from club Car on the diode is this comment:

NOTE: For 2011 model year, a change inside the controller allowed this diode to be removed from the wire harness

and:

If the pin 9 diode has failed open, it should be removed from the harness. Instead of replacing the diode with a new one, we recommend installing an IQ Main Dropout Harness (CC P/N 102355201) between the Tow/Run switch and the wire harness.

The diode itself was not available in earlier versions of the DS harness and that caused the original issue.

As we know now the drop-out harness is not available anymore, no big deal, but if your harness does not have a working diode between the tow/run and Controller pin #9, You should add one.

Did You do a quick check on those wire connections I mentioned just to eliminate simple wiring mistakes?

[Sergio]

Keep your regular voltmeter meter on the Solenoid positive activation wire (light blue wire) and pack negative.

That is the same power source for the Controller pin #10 (tan wire) where the Controller should be taking the voltage reading.

If You notice a voltage drop there and it is a new harness with new sonic-welds, You may want to check the dash harness and key switch.