05-30-2019, 11:25 AM | #1 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Texas
Posts: 586
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2006 Precedent
Another neighbor had cart problems and I get a call. Evidently guests ran the batteries down, then towed it over a mile home without flipping the run/tow switch to Tow. Now it won't move. Battery voltage is 50.5 Volts, back up buzzer works, you can hear the switch in the MCOR engage when you press the gas and can hear the solenoid click, but no movement. I think it's the controller but wanted to get opinions.
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05-30-2019, 12:04 PM | #2 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: 2006 Precedent
Make sure the solenoid is closing in and passing current through it, then if it is, you can test the controller output like this: With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground). Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed.
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05-30-2019, 12:25 PM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Texas
Posts: 586
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Re: 2006 Precedent
Thanks, I'll give it a shot this afternoon. I'm assuming if the controller is working then the voltage will increase as described?
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05-30-2019, 12:28 PM | #4 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: 2006 Precedent
That is correct. (Based on throttle input from the MCOR)
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05-30-2019, 01:47 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Texas
Posts: 586
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Re: 2006 Precedent
I checked it out as you said above, solenoid working and the output on the motor wires never got above 4.5 volts.
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05-30-2019, 01:54 PM | #6 |
MOD of all BS!
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 17,477
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Re: 2006 Precedent
That definitely means the controller is not putting out voltage, but lets make sure the MCOR potentiometer is sending a throttle signal to the controller. With the batteries connected, Tow/Run switch in Run; place the black (–) probe on packs main Negative post and the red (+) probe on the yellow wire at the 3-pin connector near the MCOR. (The reading should be approximately ~0.32vdc to ~0.5vdc with the pedal up). Slowly press the Go Pedal and the readings should increase until it reaches ~4.65vdc or more when the pedal is fully pressed.
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05-30-2019, 10:48 PM | #7 |
revolutiongolfcars.com
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia
Posts: 10,224
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Re: 2006 Precedent
basshawk84. Check the motor too. When people tow these things with a truck and don't put them in the TOW mode the motors get extremely hot. When the motors burn up they create an internal short that takes the controller out with it. Usually the motor is the first thing to go. If the controller is burnt up, the motor probably is too. Take the motor bolts loose that secure it to the differential and slide it off a half inch or so to create an air-gap. If it's burnt up, you'll smell it. You won't have to try real hard to smell it either. It'll hit you like a ton of bricks. Rotten egg, sulfur type of smell. If you smell that at all, replace the motor. If you've got a bad motor and you put a new controller on it, you're likely to damage the new controller.
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05-31-2019, 05:02 AM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: East Texas
Posts: 586
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Re: 2006 Precedent
Thanks guys, I'll try to check those two things out today.
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05-31-2019, 05:49 AM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 635
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Re: 2006 Precedent
Good Info
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