New owner of an 07 Precendent. Sorting issues

[Hoopty50]

Hi all,

I've been lurking for a while and finally bought a 2007 Precedent.

Issue #1:
The driver front tire is worn on the outside of the tread, as if it has way too much positive camber. Could this be bad bushings, or the result of a wreck that bent something?

Issue #2:
The batteries die quickly (11 mins average). They're 2014 dated, but I don't really want to spend the money on batteries yet. The volt meter reads 12.5 - 12.7 volts on each of the 4 batteries at the posts, have not tested the individual cells yet. The plates seem lightly sulfated.

Is there any use in investing the time to desulfate the batteries through trickle charging, discharging, then cycling several times? I know I'll never get more than 50-ish% capacity back, but I just need to get them working well enough to carry me a few more months.

Thanks!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Hoopty50

Hi all,

I've been lurking for a while and finally bought a 2007 Precedent.

Issue #1:
The driver front tire is worn on the outside of the tread, as if it has way too much positive camber. Could this be bad bushings, or the result of a wreck that bent something? Usually bushing wear at least a little similar. This sounds substantially different. If so, it may be spindle damage or the leak is jacked.

Issue #2:
The batteries die quickly (11 mins average). They're 2014 dated, but I don't really want to spend the money on batteries yet. The volt meter reads 12.5 - 12.7 volts on each of the 4 batteries at the posts, have not tested the individual cells yet. The plates seem lightly sulfated.

Is there any use in investing the time to desulfate the batteries through trickle charging, discharging, then cycling several times? I know I'll never get more than 50-ish% capacity back, but I just need to get them working well enough to carry me a few more months. You can try, but I doubt you will get much. They are over 5 years old and are probably shot.

Thanks!

We have a few shops that sell "good" used batteries for $35/ea with a core. You may look at that as an interinm

[Hoopty50]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

We have a few shops that sell "good" used batteries for $35/ea with a core. You may look at that as an interinm

Thanks! The batteries haven’t reaponded much to the charging, still about 10-15 mins of run time before the cart goes into limp mode, not sure what the proper term is. Batteries all still read 12.7 volts, but I guess they just don’t have much charge

[Hoopty50]

Well i went and bought new batteries and it still does the same thing. Runs for about 10 minutes just fine and then runs around half speed. Is the speed sensor the next logical step?

[NoleFan4Ever]

If the cart "dies" it is not the that, but if it goes into "Limp" that could be from the Speed Sensor being faulty or the Main Contactor showing a "Welded solenoid"

Does it actually die/stop or does it go to 1/2 speed?

[NoleFan4Ever]

I am going to assume you are in Limp mode so when it occurs again do the following:
(With the carts Run/Tow switch in the "Run" position and brake Off) Push the vehicle manually forwards or backwards for several feet. The "Roll-Away" brake should become active and you would feel resistance to the movement along with multiple beeping from the reverse buzzer. If you do not get beeping and resistance, your speed sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. Get one here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/motors.

If you want to test the sensor signal in detail, take a a DVM, place the black (–) probe on the battery main pack Negative post and place the red (+) probe on the green wire between the 3-pin connector and the motor speed sensor. Raise one rear wheel off ground. Slowly turn the rear wheel to rotate the motor armature. As the armature rotates, the voltage reading should alternate from 0vdc to approximately 4.85vdc. The voltage reading will fluctuate from zero to 4.85vdc and back to zero four times for each revolution of the motor armature. (The voltage reading of 4.85vdc is an approximate reading; the actual reading may vary from 4.50vdc to 5.00vdc). Replace the speed sensor if there is no voltage reading, voltage reading is not above 3.50vdc, or the voltage reading does not fluctuate as the motor is turned.

[Hoopty50]

Yes, half speed.

It has also acted erratically while driving. Sometimes while coasting from fully speed, the battery alarm will go off, and sometimes the regen braking will kick in by pulsing to stop the cart. I can’t ever seem to figure out what triggers it to replicate a test either, it seems random. I will try your test and report back with what I find.
Thank you for your help!

[NoleFan4Ever]

You will either confirm or Rule Out by those tests, the speed sensor.

[Hoopty50]

Results:
I backed the cart out of the garage and tried to push it. Brakes and alarm worked as they should.
Drove the cart for the usual 10-12 minutes before it started acting up again - jerking, then eventually settling at half speed. Stopped, got out and pushed the cart forward and backward 10’ and no alarms or brakes.
Seems to meet the bad speed sensor criteria.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Hoopty50

Results:
I backed the cart out of the garage and tried to push it. Brakes and alarm worked as they should.
Drove the cart for the usual 10-12 minutes before it started acting up again - jerking, then eventually settling at half speed. Stopped, got out and pushed the cart forward and backward 10’ and no alarms or brakes.
Seems to meet the bad speed sensor criteria.

I agree. It sounds like your speed sensor is working intermittently. When it's working, all is well. When it's not working, it's in limp mode. Complete failure of the device is definitely in the future. At this point, it won't work at all and you'll stay in limp mode all the time until the sensor is replaced. Stay away from cheap aftermarket sensors from Amazon or eBay. They're often junk right out of the box.