Lifted '93 36V keeps melting v-glides

[Sergio]

Make sure the VGlide is adjusted properly and the ARM pad is fully over the last contact at WOT, all the current will go through the last pad the instant the VGlide arm barely touches the last pad and if not fully overlapped it will cause a lot of heat.

If the customer does most of the drive at WOT (the best driving for that model) You can completely by-pass the entire VGlide path for high current by adding a second solenoid as in the diagram below:

Additional Information:

The idea is that the second solenoid completes the connection from the main solenoid directly to the motor Terminal A2.

You remove the last 6ga cable from the V-Glide (black) and in its place run a 18ga wire to one of the small posts of the new solenoid.

The other small post of the new solenoid gets wired to motor terminal A1.

That way when the V-Glide touches the last pad, the new solenoid closes and the high current completely by-passes the V-Glide and resistor coils and goes directly to the motor.


The Red Cable should be the same gauge as your battery cables (6ga, 4ga).

The Green Wire for the solenoid coil is 18ga minimum.

Please note that the Half-Speed reverse cable has been moved to the 36v pack positive location as most solenoids need at least 75% of the rated coil voltage to activate, so no less than 30v (5 batteries) needs to be used for reverse.

The solenoid you use cannot have any external or internal diodes. That is because the coil activation polarity for that solenoid gets reversed with the F&R switch.

[38932]

Sergio
What type solenoid do you recommend on this Bypass solution? Would 36 volt Club Car work? I know you mention no internal or external diode.