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Old 10-13-2012, 04:17 PM   #11
Madman415
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

just checked resistance from bat (-) to everywhere else in cart. All metal, all grounds etc. and there is 0 resistance.

Room temperature is 70 degrees F
Every electrical part is within 1 degree of room temperature except the regulator which gets as hot as 92 degrees. As it passes 77 degrees, the voltage rises even though the engine is at a steady RPM. By the time the regulator reaches 88 degrees and above, voltage is at 17+ volts.

I'm assuming the regulator will die soon as the rest of them have. What would cause this issue? The regulator that is in it now keeps the system at 14.6 volts until the temp rises.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:12 PM   #12
worqhors
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

Can we just go back to basics? Review your wiring to the voltage regulator. The middle wire is colored green and is connected to the starter generator DF. The right most wire (with VR facing you) is ground. The leftmost wire is red and attached to the solenoid.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:12 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

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Originally Posted by worqhors View Post
Can we just go back to basics? Review your wiring to the voltage regulator. The middle wire is colored green and is connected to the starter generator DF. The right most wire (with VR facing you) is ground. The leftmost wire is red and attached to the solenoid.
Yes, that's how it is wired. I haven't changed any wiring from OEM.

Ok, this is what I've accomplished today. I got it to stay at around 14-15 volts at 2,000 rpm. Still hits 17 volts at 3,600 rpm.
It used to run around 13-14 volts regardless of rpm. It used to depend on the battery load.

Here's a video to bore you guys with

Last edited by Madman415; 10-13-2012 at 06:33 PM.. Reason: adding to it
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:32 AM   #14
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

What engine do you have in there?
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:17 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

check the insulator where the df terminal goes through starter case to make sure it is not grounding the after it gets hot. To test generator output you ground the green wire and get 17 - 18 volts
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:49 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

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What engine do you have in there?
350cc all stock never been rebuilt... yet
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Old 10-17-2012, 06:53 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

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check the insulator where the df terminal goes through starter case to make sure it is not grounding the after it gets hot. To test generator output you ground the green wire and get 17 - 18 volts
Thank you, I'll check that in the morning. I just put yet another regulator on it this morning. I towed a cart up the 1 mile hill to the resort and it stayed at 14.6 volts the entire time.

regulator from a 2012 EZGO fleet cart in my '97
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:01 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

well, so far so good. incase anyone cares. I think that with the help I got from this thread, doing what was suggested, is what is making the new regulator stay working. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:26 AM   #19
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

I have a 97 Workhorse which is exactly like yours. But I don't have the problem that you have. On the grounding issue, you are right that the braided cable should be connected to the starter gen, The battery negative has to be likewise connected to another braided ground wire near the battery. The black wire of the voltage regulator (squarish thing with green, red and black wire) should be grounded properly too. The green wire that goes to the DF of the starter gen should not touch the starter gen body. The protruding connector pole marked DF should be insulated so that the green wire will not be touching the starter gen casing. I hope that this will help pin down the issue.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:30 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1997 EZGO Workhorse 1200

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Originally Posted by worqhors View Post
I have a 97 Workhorse which is exactly like yours. But I don't have the problem that you have. On the grounding issue, you are right that the braided cable should be connected to the starter gen, The battery negative has to be likewise connected to another braided ground wire near the battery. The black wire of the voltage regulator (squarish thing with green, red and black wire) should be grounded properly too. The green wire that goes to the DF of the starter gen should not touch the starter gen body. The protruding connector pole marked DF should be insulated so that the green wire will not be touching the starter gen casing. I hope that this will help pin down the issue.
after I changed the generator, I did notice a problem with the old gen after it was out and on the bench.
Where the green wire bolts on to the gen, the pole that protrudes will spin around and I'm not able to tighten it enough to stop that. I think that at some point when I replaced the regulator and ran a new green wire, I may have over tightened the wire on that pole and broke something inside. At this point, not yet taking the gen apart to see what happened inside, I believe that may have been killing the regulators somehow.

This entire time, I had this feeling that it was something so minor causing the issue and being that it was minor, I was most likely overlooking the actual problem. I have a bad habit of over thinking things. One of the reasons I love this site is because people will say, "Slow down and go back to basics"
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