Ezgo pds alltrax 400 quit running

[georgia088]

Ok. I cleaned and no change. Checked voltage of pin 7 and get 50.1v. Same as at small terminal on solenoid. Press the gas and the voltage doesn't drop and the solenoid doesn't click


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[JohnnieB]

That says the controller isn't doing its thing, but the controller might not be being told to energize the solenoid. Could be a bad pedal switch or wiring from pedal switch instead of bad controller.

Check the voltage on Pin-5 of 10-Pin connector on top of DCX. Should go to battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed.

[georgia088]

Pin 5 does go to battery voltage when pedal is pressed.


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[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by georgia088

Pin 5 does go to battery voltage when pedal is pressed.


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DCX controller is kaput.

Replace it with an XCT48400-PDS or larger. http://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-xct-sepex--.html

Hopefully you have the speed sensor on the motor and the stock cable. The XCT doesn't give its optimal performance without motor RPM data input.

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You can get the cart to run with the DCX by connecting a jumper wire from the B- terminal on the controller to the small stud with the blue wire.

Just a temporary fix, it is a bit on the less safe side since the solenoid is activated all the time the DCX is powered up. You have to turn off the key, or shift the F/R to neutral to open the solenoid contacts instead of just lifting your foot off the pedal.

[georgia088]

Yikes! That's not what I wanted to hear! Ok, so I put jumper wire between b- and small stud where blue wire is and I got big spark. Now I have no voltage to either small stud on solenoid or on pin 7 of controller. I really do want to make it move again. Whatever it takes. I appreciate the help!


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[JohnnieB]

Oops, forgot to mention you should flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow before making any electrical connections.

However, connecting the blue wire to B- is what the controller does when pedal switch closes and tells it to.

Shouldn't have been a big spark unless B+ was also being fed from Pin-7 somehow.

Check the voltage on the yellow wire. If it is still there, remove the blue wire from the small stud (after switching to Tow) and reconnect the jumper to B-.

If it isn't there, one of the diodes in the adapter probably got zapped.
Could be the reed switch, key switch, F/R switch or Run/Tow switch.

The attached schematic has the voltage path to the yellow wire side of the solenoid highlighted.

[georgia088]

There is no voltage at the yellow wire. So you think I fried one of the switches? The light is still solid green.
Also, why would there have been voltage at the blue wire on the small post?


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[JohnnieB]

If the DCX is powering up (LED steady green), you have to have B+ on Pins 6, 9 & 10 and that eliminates all the switches and diodes previously mentioned.

That leaves the yellow wire, pin-7 on J1 (PDS wiring harness) and a solder joint inside the adapter.


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Normally, the voltage on the blue wire is feed through from the yellow wire on the other side of the solenoid coil. Connecting the blue wire to B- completes the solenoid coil circuit and energizes the solenoid. There is about 3A of current flow through the solenoid coil initially, but quickly drops off to about 1A holding current.

Pin-7 on the DCX is a solid-state switch. When it is turned off, the feed-through voltage from the yellow wire on the other side of the solenoid coil will be felt at Pin-7. When it is turned on, B- is applied to the blue wire, completing the solenoid coil circuit and energizing the solenoid.

The SS switch at pin-7 has to have B+ and B- to work, so there are some failure mode where B+ from inside the controller could be present on pin-7, but if that got shorted to B-, I don't think the controller would continue to power up.

In other words, except for the possibility of the something wrong with the yellow wire circuit back to the solder joint inside the adapter, I'm stumped as to why there is no B+ on the yellow wire.

On the other hand, part of the DCX controller is bad, so the whole thing is bad.

[georgia088]

Ok. It was def. the solder joint in adapter that burned up. So I fixed that issue.

Now, I have pack voltage at yellow wire like I should.
However. I also have it at the other small terminal of solenoid (where blue wire connects). I have pack voltage there even when I remove the blue wire and the little diode (don't know what you call it but the little electronic component that goes across both small posts on my solenoid.

What does this mean?


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[scottyb]

Question. There is 36v (+) at both small solenoid terminals even though one of these small terminals is completely bare of any wire or diode connection?
If the answer is yes, The solenoid coil has shorted out and the solenoid needs to be replaced.

As far as the controller goes, There seems to be an issue with solenoid activation but it could just be the solenoid problem was masquerading as a control issue?
It is worth a solenoid by pass test, Be cautious the cart may go. It is best to do this with one wheel off the floor.

Put the R/T switch in tow. put both solenoid big cables on one post. Either post. Secure them. Put R/T switch in run and test the cart.