Bad F N R Switch or controller?

[Sergio]

That is for field weakening, here is some info:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1097304

[ClubCar86]

Thanks Sergio! I may just take that out. I do recall it helping on flat ground, but reading about it loosing torque makes sense.

I jacked the cart up tonight, put it on jack stands, reconnected the batteries and moved the F N R switch to F. The crackling and electrical sounds came from that switch when the contacts made contact. The wheels immediately began to spin (again, no key in, and gas pedal was not pressed). went to "R" and again got crackling and popping at the FNR switch. There was even a quick flame. I did not check the voltage across the solenoid.

When power was disconnected, I pushed the gas pedal and heard all 5 switches click.

[Sergio]

The field weakening is OK if you remember to just run it when cruising on flat ground, that is why I suggested the self deactivating switch on that post.

As it was already mentioned, you have the main solenoid welded, that is the solenoid with no coils on top.

Since the motor is running, and causing the FNR to spark, You also have one of the other solenoids welded.

This should be your diagram:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...oid_wiring.jpg

[ClubCar86]

Thanks Sergio, I ordered all new solenoids. Will just replace them all while I'm in there.

[scottyb]

The F&R may also be compromised as popping, crackling, and flames all indicate contact material swapping locations which compromises their surfaces and leads to more popping and crackling....

[ClubCar86]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The F&R may also be compromised as popping, crackling, and flames all indicate contact material swapping locations which compromises their surfaces and leads to more popping and crackling....

I think those are fairly cheap, perhaps I should just replace that too. It could be an original?

[ClubCar86]

Thanks to everyone on this thread. I replaced the 5 solenoids, and it was back up and running. Now it appears one of the limit switches is broken. My sypmtoms: 1) only hear 4 clicks when pressing the gas pedal, 2) lurches in the middle of accelerating, 3) reverse really lurches. I'm thinking its the #3 switch.

[Sergio]

If You are getting a little speed and then a quick increase, then You are probably right.

You can test the voltage on the solenoids positive activation wires with the key switch OFF and the cart in neutral.

Just put the meter negative probe on the Pack Negative battery post, the positive side is always hot in the input side of the micro-switches in that model.

[ClubCar86]

Sergio, I finally got around to testing the voltage on the solenoids from the micro-switches this evening. See below for my notes. I'm calling solenoid #1, the first one on the driver's side.

# 36v after Click#
1: 1,2,3,4
2: 1,2,3,4
3: 1,2,3,4
4: 3,4
5: 1,2,3,4

So after one pressing the pedal and hearing 1 click, I got 36v on solenoids 1-3 and 5, the reading stayed the same after click #2, then on click #3 and 4, I got readings on all solenoids (solenoid 4 got a reading).

All the microswitches are in a little aluminum box up in front of the batteries, Maybe something is loose in there? I'll attack that next. Is there any adjustment that can be made wrt the pedal and the switches?

[Sergio]

I think your meter is reading the voltage across the activated solenoid, through the un-powered negative common connection and across to the positive side of the other ones you are testing.

You should have noticed less voltage than the active one, but maybe you have a high impedance meter.

You can test it again by putting the FNR in neutral and the Key switch ON.

Reach with your finger and manually engage the micro-switch on the FNR.

That will provide the negative side to the solenoids so they will actually close, but with the FNR in Neutral, the cart will not move.