48 to 12 volt reducer

[trigger1937]

Steve3201,...I really feel bad for you and all the parts you "Blew". It seems that "Blue Wire" you found is something far different that what we all thought it was. The key switch on the DASH passes the real +48 volt to many things in the cart, and I have no way of knowing if your cart came with the 48 volt relay in the DASH. The purpose of that relay in Carts with a light kit is to pass +12volts to all the things that need +12 volts. However, because your converter will draw many amps when other things are on, I would not use the key switch since you would be adding many more AMPs of current through that switch and it may not be rated for that much current.

You mentioned that you "Drew 0.5 Volts",.. but that is not what you meant. Yes the voltage went down overnight by 0.5 volts but the real issue is how much "Current" in AMPs the converter is drawing all the time. What I would do would be to add a 2nd 48 volt relay in the dash that would pass the +48 volt source to your converter. In this way when you turn on the master key switch your converter is ready to go and when you turn your cart off nothing is drawing any current. The voltage drop is just a result of the current you draw.

I have attached a couple of pdf schematic files and pictures that will help you. If I were you I would turn the tow/run off and disconnect the negative battery lead and then use a VOM meter to trace the wires down so you can once and for all make yourself a new schematic of just how your cart is wired. The next time you connect the wrong thing you may burn up the wires or some other component. These diagrams may not match your cart but they provide a place to start to create and verify your own cart.

TS Connections Precedent Instructions.pdf

UltimateLightKitUpgradeInstallweb[1].pdf

BucketHarnessInstall2011Rev.pdf

[Stevec3201]

trigger,
Thanks for the feedback. I started another thread on this topic and another member suggested exactly what you did. However, he mentioned the relay controlling the 12 volt side, that confuses me. Please check it out and thanks for the diagrams.

Note: If I took readings from my meter prior to flipping switches, nothing would have blown. I got in a hurry. Hey, it works now and just needs some tweaking to get it the way I want it.