"Extra" lift question

[Mpnoffi]

I posted this question in my build thread over in "lifted carts" section. I thought that I might get a little more action over here.

I'm trying to get another 1-2" of lift on the front of my cart. I have a 6" drop axel kit. The rear sits about 2" higher due to new HD springs. Wondering what the upsides/downsides are to adding a 2" spacer between the backside of my front springs and the body/frame would be.

Would something like this work for me? (not my cart btw...)

[kab69440]

It would get the job done. Looks like it might make the cart "feel" unsteady in turns.

[monkey-1]

An easier way to get some more lift with that axle it to get you a couple of more axle pads (the triangle pieces that mount the front of the leaf springs) and weld them to the top of the existing axle. I used to do that all the time when I needed more lift and was using the OEM lift axle EZGO offers. This will clear 25" tires for sure. The back of the leaf springs are in the stock location.

Like this:

[Mpnoffi]

Originally Posted by kab69440

It would get the job done. Looks like it might make the cart "feel" unsteady in turns.

Not sure I understand Kab. How so?
Should "feel" the same, only higher, right?

[Mpnoffi]

Originally Posted by monkey-1

An easier way to get some more lift with that axle it to get you a couple of more axle pads (the triangle pieces that mount the front of the leaf springs) and weld them to the top of the existing axle. I used to do that all the time when I needed more lift and was using the OEM lift axle EZGO offers. This will clear 25" tires for sure. The back of the leaf springs are in the stock location.

Like this:

Sorry Monkey. I should have posted a pic of what I'm running too. That pic was lifted from another thread. My springs are on top of the axel. Here is a pic of my lift.



The rear was on a jack and I had twenty eleven beers that night.
The cart sits nice and level from side to side.

Any other tips or tricks anyone knows of?

[pachanga90]

As long as the spacers are thick-walled(at least 3/16"-wall,1/4"-prefered),and bolted in with minimum of Grade-5 bolts,it should be fine.I would run it a bit,and recheck everything to make sure nothing moves or loosens,after that,Run-It!!

[Mpnoffi]

Gotcha Pachanga. If I add 2" to the front via a spacer over the axel, would that be better? If so, how much would I need to add to the rear to not rub the tie rods? 2"? Would that lift it even more than 2"? Probably a dumb question but I'm not seeing it for some reason...

My spacers came in today. They look great and made the stance exactly what I hoped for. Only, they made the problem worse! still rubs on the brake linkage and now they rub on the fender when I load the springs while turning.



I feel like I am really close to having this figured out.
thanks
mpnoffi

[pachanga90]

I would probably put the spacers at the rear-mount.You may need longer front-springs to move the axle ahead.With that big of a tire,they are too close to the foot-wall.The TXT-springs are the longest availiable.I built my own for my cart(I work for a spring-shop).

[monkey-1]

Originally Posted by Mpnoffi

Sorry Monkey. I should have posted a pic of what I'm running too. That pic was lifted from another thread. My springs are on top of the axel. Here is a pic of my lift.

I got ya.

Originally Posted by pachanga90

I would probably put the spacers at the rear-mount.You may need longer front-springs to move the axle ahead.With that big of a tire,they are too close to the foot-wall.The TXT-springs are the longest availiable.I built my own for my cart(I work for a spring-shop).

I agree, some longer springs will move the front axle further out and help with clearing those big tires. If you have some new leaf springs made that are longer AND more arch, you may run into a problem with the tie rods hitting the leaf springs. This is how I used to cure that problem:

This is how to make a drag link setup for the front of 1994-2000 EZGO (pre rack and pinion). This eliminates the risers on the spindles.

IF you do this correctly, you will actually have a tighter turning radius with the big tires than you will stock. You need to do alot of measuring to make sure that you do this correctly and that you dont have a tigher turning radius on way than the other.

(NOTE: I normally pressure wash all the grime off of a cart before lifting, but it was like 22 degrees the morning I did this and way too cold.)

Ok here we go:

First disconnect both tie rods and turn the one from the drivers side to the passenger side like this:


Next, take the other tie rod and cut it in half. Then scuff all of the paint off of the end so you can weld it:



Then, put one end in each spindle and snug it up a little, so there will not be any slop in it like this:



Now this is where you need to take your time and do alot of measuring. With the tires on the cart and the cart on the ground, measure the front of the tires and the back of the tires until you have the tires and wheels parallel to each other. This needs to be real close, but not perfect, you can dial it in perfect after the next couple of steps. Now that you have the tires and wheels where you want them, measure the distance between the nuts on the tie rod ends. Your measurement will vary from axle to axle so make sure you leave yourself plenty of adjustment both ways.

Now that you have that measurement, cut your tubing to that length and put your rod ends in both ends and weld them in. MEASURE SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE WELDING. Here is what that will look like:



NOTE You can use round tubing or square tubing, it really doesnt matter. I have used both. For this one I used square tubing (1 inch, 1/8 inch thick is perfect, no slop). ALSO, be sure not to weld through the tie rods and lock them in place as you will not be able to adjust them.

Now install the drag link and adjust it to get your tires exactly where you want them. Some people make the front tires parallel to each other. I personally toe my tires in a little bit, do whats best for your application. Whatever your preference, adjust it and when its where you want it, lock the nuts on the rod ends down real tight. Now, roll the cart forward and backward several feet and recheck the alignment. If it hasn't changed, then get ready for the next step. But MAKE SURE that the nuts are good and snug on the rod ends, if they are loose then your steering will be sloppy.

Now you will need to build your upright steering mount. You need to use something pretty thick, so the tie rod will snug up. It needs to be atleast 5 inches tall, maybe more for your application.

Next, you will have to do some measuring here to make sure that you have equal steering both directions. Tack weld the upright on the end of the drag link like this and check to make sure you have equal steering both ways.



CHECK, check and then check again. If its not equal both directions, then move the upright. Once you have that where you want it, weld all sides and paint:



Make sure everything is torqued and then replace all of your cotter pins. Now take it out for a ride.

[pachanga90]

Nice setup.The only thing I would suggest on this,is to add a gusset to the riser-bracket.There is alot of leverage there,both from the steering-wheel end and from tire-impacts on ruts,bumps,etc.A butt-joint only has a small contact-area,so a brace will likely add 4x the strength.