94 Electric (36V) Carryall VI does not go.

[rmlewisjr]

I recently purchased a 94 electric carryall VI. I replaced all the batteries with deep cycle cart batteries (Qty 6 - 6VDC batteries). The S/N plate is J9412 XXXXXX (yes there is only one letter in the S/N) The best that I can tell is that it is a 1994 built in week 12. I have been unable to locate a manual as of yet so while I track on down at my local dealer, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should start my troubleshooting?

[jakesnake27]

to BGW

Does this cart have the controller or resistor coil setup? If you see metal coils behind the batteries, it's resistor, if not, then solid state controller.

[rmlewisjr]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

to BGW

Does this cart have the controller or resistor coil setup? If you see metal coils behind the batteries, it's resistor, if not, then solid state controller.

It has a Curtis PMC 1204-009 controller. I've looked closer and there is a red wire that is not connected that is coming from the wiring harness near the v-glide.

When I got the cart it did not have any batteries so I never saw where the wire was hooked up to.

[jakesnake27]

Here's your diagram:

[rmlewisjr]

Kind of hard to read, but if I'm seeing correctly the #8 Red wire (find 13) is going to the solenoid (control wire I'm guessing). and I need to locate another white wire for the negative terminal to go to the charging receptacle.

[rmlewisjr]

So the red wire will in no way make it over to the passenger side POS terminal on battery 1. I followed it back into the harness and it looks like it goes to a fuse block (3 20 AMP fuses). I am unable to locate a wire that goes back to the charging receptacle. So I'm not sure that the drawing is an accurate representation of what I have.

Plus I have the 36V charger built into the area under the seat. (looks like it works)

Manual is in the mail from Buggies Unlimited.

[rmlewisjr]

The mystery of the Red wire has been solved, it is the 12V supply for the lights. I traced it down this afternoon.
Now with that out of the way I checked voltage to the B- terminal of the controller and to the + side of the solenoid. That checked the same voltage as when I checked Batt - and Batt + (37.8 VDC). The next check was B+ Terminal and B- Terminal of the controller 36.2 VDC, Check Good.

Next Step
Check for main contactor operation and KSI:
Turn the key on, place the forward/reverse switch in forward or
reverse, and depress the footpedal until its microswitch operates.
Check
This should cause the main contactor to operate with an audible
click. (NO Click...HMMM)
Connect the voltmeter across the contactor coil terminals. You
should see full battery voltage (minus the polarity diode drop). Nope not there.

So my question, when I bypass the solenoid should I see the motor run when I depress the footpedal? Or is there some other relay/safety that is preventing this.

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by rmlewisjr

So my question, when I bypass the solenoid should I see the motor run when I depress the footpedal? Or is there some other relay/safety that is preventing this.

Yes you should. It may be the microswitch in the V-glide, or it could be the solenoid itself. Jump the solenoid to see if the motor runs.

[rmlewisjr]

I've tested the solenoid and it tested bad. I've also found a bad F/R anti-arcing micro switch. The micro switch on the brakes (NC) had a broken wire (now repaired). There isn't much left to check, Controller, 5K POT, and motor. Have I missed anything?

[rmlewisjr]

SUCCESS! After replacing the solenoid and the Anti-Arcing micro-switch. Replacing the 250 OHM resistor that someone had substituted for the polarity diode, I got it to run. There are a few issues with the throttle but that's for another thread. I'll post some picture as I rebuild the cart.