Field Open Alarm on Alltrax XCT

[sonofagunn]

I intermittently can't use the cart, and this is the only error I see in the Alltrax Toolkit when the problem is happening.

The controller is relatively new, the batteries are new and in a good state of charge, I just replaced all the battery cables and the 4 cables going to the motor hoping it would fix the problem, but all indications led me to a bad motor.

So I just purchased from someone on this forum an ADC motor from a working 2014 Precedent that was being upgraded and I put it in.

I still have the same problem My wife is going to kill me as I assured her the new motor would fix it...

Here is a log file from when the problem is happening. I've highlighted the rows where "Field Open Alarm" is true. The footswitch, keyswitch, throttle all seem to be good according to the log. Any ideas what it may be?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

[sonofagunn]

On a possibly related note, is this the right way to connect the cables to the controller, or should they be on the outside of the metal tab?

IMG_20190830_155011.jpg

[Budule]

looks like your grinding on the inset ….I would think its tab > cable >bolt....

and I have a 14 Precedent im about to do the same thing on ….

[Fairtax4me]

I don't know that it matters but I would put them on the outside of the tabs.

The field wires will be the ones going to the F terminals on the motor. Make sure those are connected properly and the studs on the motor are not loose or twisted. Do you also have 4ga wires going to those? They only handle a small amount of current on the sepex motors, so having a large cable there is no advantage.

[sonofagunn]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

I don't know that it matters but I would put them on the outside of the tabs.

The field wires will be the ones going to the F terminals on the motor. Make sure those are connected properly and the studs on the motor are not loose or twisted. Do you also have 4ga wires going to those? They only handle a small amount of current on the sepex motors, so having a large cable there is no advantage.

On 2nd thought I don't think it matters if they are connected inside or outside because there is a bolt on the inside that tightens down against the tab the same as it would on the outside.

I have 6ga everywhere, same as OEM. Everything is tight, clean, and connected well, and this has been double checked multiple times.

[Fairtax4me]

If you have the problem right now, disconnect one of the F cables from the motor and check for continuity from F1 to F2 on the motor.
If you have continuity, reconnect and see if it works, or if you still have the error.

If the error is still present it's either the field cables/connections or the controller.


Test the motor with a 12V battery. Jack the rear of the cart off the ground. Tow mode, disconnect pack negative.
Disconnect all cables, jumper F1 to A1, F2 to A2. Supply 12V positive to one pair, 12V negative to the other pair. The motor should spin.
If it does not spin there is a problem in the motor.
If it does, problem is in the controller or cables.

[sonofagunn]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

If you have the problem right now, disconnect one of the F cables from the motor and check for continuity from F1 to F2 on the motor.
If you have continuity, reconnect and see if it works, or if you still have the error.

If the error is still present it's either the field cables/connections or the controller.


Test the motor with a 12V battery. Jack the rear of the cart off the ground. Tow mode, disconnect pack negative.
Disconnect all cables, jumper F1 to A1, F2 to A2. Supply 12V positive to one pair, 12V negative to the other pair. The motor should spin.
If it does not spin there is a problem in the motor.
If it does, problem is in the controller or cables.

The motor and everything works *most* of the time.

If I'm currently having the problem, and there is no continuity between F1 and F2, the motor is bad? If there is continuity it would be wiring or the controller?

[Fairtax4me]

If there is no continuity from F1 to F2 there is an internal problem in the motor.
You could remove the motor and make sure the studs that connect the F terminals to the field coils have not been twisted and have a good connection to the wire for the field coil. If there’s not an obvious problem then there’s a break in one of the field coils. It would need to go to a motor shop to have the field coils re-wound.

How are you testing continuity?
Double check that your meter works by testing a long peice of wire, jumper cable or something like that.
Sounds too coincidental for a “new” motor to have the same problem as the old one unless you’ve managed to twist the field studs on both and break the wire.

[sonofagunn]

The motor does have continuity between F1 and F2, there are 2.2 ohms of resistance whether measured at the posts or the opposite ends of the cables that are unplugged from the controller. The cables are new.

I guess it has to be the controller then, the odds of having 2 faulty motors with the same problem start right after installing a new controller. It must have been faulty from the beginning.

[Fairtax4me]

How long have you had the controller? Might be able to get it covered under warranty. I’d talk with whoever you bought it from, especially if it was a site sponsor they should be able to help make it right.