yet another issue

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottyb

Micro switches are safety devices. You do need one on the throttle to activate the solenoid & power up the controller, otherwise you have a key activated solenoid which will burn out in time. (If left on)

Okay. I have a micro switch connected to the throttle arm which does perform the function that your talking about. It's mounted near the 0K-5K throttle sensor. It's just not mounted on the F/R switch.

Pack voltage this morning has fallen to 38.5. I metered the other side of the solenoid when it is in the normal resting state and it reads 33.29VDC. When I engage the solenoid via the go pedal, it jumps up to the 38.5vdc. When I release the pedal, it slowly falls back down to the 33.29vdc again.

I also metered the controller. 38.5vdc on the controller in. When the cart gets to the point where it can't move, the controller output voltage goes from 38.5vdc to mid 33vdc. It's seems that the conrtrollers output voltage is reducing as the cart requires more power...

Thanks for the help.

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 01:04 PM

I tried giving it a charge cycle from a different charger with no change in the problem. So the charger has been removed from the list of possible failure points.

scottyb · 07-02-2011, 02:01 PM

Connect the meter to the battery pack, and drive or attempt to drive, sounds to me like you have a battery dropping out of the string. If the cart does not go this gets easier. hold the test leads on each battery and press the go peddle... chances are one of the batteries will drop out.

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 02:41 PM

Done. Pack voltage only drops slightly to 37.5vdc when the peddle is depressed. I metered each battery individually while doing the same test and the battery again only drops slightly. So now, the batteries do not seem to be the issue. I am ready for the next step when you are.

Thanks for the help...

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 04:13 PM

Latest. I pulled the sticker off of the controller and here is what it says.

"CON-1204-CC-RB
Controller Rebuilt 48V 400A Series NON REGEN 95+ FS000468

So it's a curtis controller as was my last one but it says 48 volt. I am running at 36volts.
It did work for a month if this is the wrong part.

scottyb · 07-02-2011, 04:27 PM

I don't have good luck with rebuilt controllers. Seems to me it is one thing and then it's the next.

I have been told that controller damage is accumulative. I don't want to buy somebody else's mistakes.

scottyb · 07-02-2011, 04:29 PM

Controller output test: Hook the red probe to the B+ on the controller and the black probe to the M- on the controller. As you depress the pedal, you should read voltage across those 2 terminals of the controller.

Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M- terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.
I probably should mention controller test is done with at least one rear wheel jacked off the floor and key on, directional selector in forward. ~ test leads on B+ and M- should read 0v then push the gas and watch the voltage rise to full pack voltage?

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 05:05 PM

Thanks ScottyB,

Metering at those two points, it goes from 0V only up to 26V. When taking off,(which is the problem) voltage is only at about 6V. At full speed is when it hit 26V. I should note that we did this test while driving around on flat ground instead of it being jacked up. Hope that doesn't effect the results of the test.

What do you think about it being for a 48V system?

Atleast the drinks are cold....

scottyb · 07-02-2011, 08:27 PM

It should not matter most 48v controllers are 36-48v they run on either but 26v is a problem.... what does the pack read if you drive around with the meter on the batteries?

MACKM · 07-02-2011, 09:08 PM

Okay, I just took it for a ride to get an accurate reading. I metered at the charger connector and it read 37v and fell to as low as 36.5v. Before you say it, I know. That sounds like a dead pack. I charged it to completion today and this problem still existed even at a full 38.5.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks again.

07-02-2011, 01:04 PM	#12
MACKM Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2011 Location: MA. Posts: 27	Re: yet another issue I tried giving it a charge cycle from a different charger with no change in the problem. So the charger has been removed from the list of possible failure points.

07-02-2011, 02:01 PM	#13
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: yet another issue Connect the meter to the battery pack, and drive or attempt to drive, sounds to me like you have a battery dropping out of the string. If the cart does not go this gets easier. hold the test leads on each battery and press the go peddle... chances are one of the batteries will drop out.

07-02-2011, 02:41 PM	#14
MACKM Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2011 Location: MA. Posts: 27	Re: yet another issue Done. Pack voltage only drops slightly to 37.5vdc when the peddle is depressed. I metered each battery individually while doing the same test and the battery again only drops slightly. So now, the batteries do not seem to be the issue. I am ready for the next step when you are. Thanks for the help... Last edited by MACKM; 07-02-2011 at 04:16 PM.. Reason: I am drinking heavily today and I made a mistake typing.

07-02-2011, 04:13 PM	#15
MACKM Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2011 Location: MA. Posts: 27	Re: yet another issue Latest. I pulled the sticker off of the controller and here is what it says. "CON-1204-CC-RB Controller Rebuilt 48V 400A Series NON REGEN 95+ FS000468 So it's a curtis controller as was my last one but it says 48 volt. I am running at 36volts. It did work for a month if this is the wrong part.

07-02-2011, 04:27 PM	#16
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: yet another issue I don't have good luck with rebuilt controllers. Seems to me it is one thing and then it's the next. I have been told that controller damage is accumulative. I don't want to buy somebody else's mistakes.

Today
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07-02-2011, 04:29 PM	#17
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: yet another issue Controller output test: Hook the red probe to the B+ on the controller and the black probe to the M- on the controller. As you depress the pedal, you should read voltage across those 2 terminals of the controller. Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M- terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage. I probably should mention controller test is done with at least one rear wheel jacked off the floor and key on, directional selector in forward. ~ test leads on B+ and M- should read 0v then push the gas and watch the voltage rise to full pack voltage?

07-02-2011, 05:05 PM	#18
MACKM Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2011 Location: MA. Posts: 27	Re: yet another issue Thanks ScottyB, Metering at those two points, it goes from 0V only up to 26V. When taking off,(which is the problem) voltage is only at about 6V. At full speed is when it hit 26V. I should note that we did this test while driving around on flat ground instead of it being jacked up. Hope that doesn't effect the results of the test. What do you think about it being for a 48V system? Atleast the drinks are cold....

07-02-2011, 08:27 PM	#19
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: yet another issue It should not matter most 48v controllers are 36-48v they run on either but 26v is a problem.... what does the pack read if you drive around with the meter on the batteries?

07-02-2011, 09:08 PM	#20
MACKM Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2011 Location: MA. Posts: 27	Re: yet another issue Okay, I just took it for a ride to get an accurate reading. I metered at the charger connector and it read 37v and fell to as low as 36.5v. Before you say it, I know. That sounds like a dead pack. I charged it to completion today and this problem still existed even at a full 38.5. Let me know what you think. Thanks again.

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