83 Marathon Rebuild Project

[linda83ezgo]

I purchased a 83 Marathon with 2 cycle engine, and it is a basket case. Motor is intact but not in buggy, all electrical parts but pulser on motor are missing. I have purchased all the electrical parts and a new clutch.

Problem 1 - I mounted the clutch on the crankshaft and it does not appear to be seated and does not turn true. Any hints on mounting? The Clutch I purchased is a Drive Clutch for 76 - 88 2 cycle from Cartszone.

Problem 2 - I have a wiring diagram from a manuel but this does not tell me where all the electrical components go. Anybody have photos of this model buggy so I can see where it all goes?

Appreciate any help I can get. Thanks.

[Dave Box]

To the far left is the coil (with the spark plug lead attached). Next and to the right of the throttle linkage is the voltage regulator. To the right of that and slightly above is the main solenoid. To the right of that and below is the ignitor.

Does that answer your question?

With regard to your clutch, I am suspect of the dated the clutch is supposed to fit. It is my understanding that the 1980 crankshaft was bigger that the pre 1980 so the dates you quote may not be correct. You crankshaft should be a tapered shaft and the clutch should slide down almost to the lip and then be snugged up with the center bolt. I would pull the clutch off and measure the size of the hole on the engine side and compare it to the size of the crankshaft near the lip.

Good luck

Dave

[linda83ezgo]

Thanks for the help. Do the regulator, solinoid, and other electrical device mount to a seperate plate that mounts to the bulkhead? I will check clutch and see to see what I can figure out.

[Dave Box]

Yes Linda they do. If you look carefully you can see the black plate and the 4 nuts holding it on. This also applies to the coil and it is easier to see the mounting plate. There should be studs welded to the firewall.

Oh and BTW welcome to the forum.

Dave

[racin161]

I thought LINDA would get your attention!!!!

[linda83ezgo]

Dave,

[linda83ezgo]

Dave,
I did chuckle a bit. My wife Linda and daughter need something to ride at the farm (cottage) and I needed a winter project so this fiot the bill. On the solinoid there are 2 small posts which one is ground? Next to battey? terminal This is a fantastic source of info. My first time blogging too.

[Dave Box]

Ok "Linda" now we have that cleared up let's pretend that you are not wearing a pink chiffon ball gown and a diamond tiarra.

Your 1983 was an unusual beast as EZGO made a few unwise modifications that year and reverted back in 1984. I think that basically the information I give you will be correct but will be based on my 86 model.

Now with regard to the solenoid if you are standing behind the cart looking at the front then the grounds are on the right. As it happens it doesn't really matter as long as all the grounds are on the same side and all the positives, the other.The solenoid is only a device to allow a weak and pathetic little micro switch switch a large load, the starter motor.

Any more information? Just shout.

Dave

[linda83ezgo]

I finally got it all back together and tried starting. Electrical, ignition, and fuel system completly rebuilt. Nice blue spark in fwd and reverse. Would not start or even pull enough fuel to fill the fuel filter, did a compression check and I am at only 60 pounds. I am going to rebuild the engine top and bottom. One thing of concern is drive cluth is still not mounted square I am wondering if the crank is bent we will see what the rebuild brings. Is the fuel pump mechanical or does it rely on vacuum from the crankcase to pull fuel? I will read some threads on engine rebuild to get tips, piston turned 180 seems like a big problem. Once I get rebuild complete and try agian I am sure I will have a few more questions.

[Dave Box]

Well 60 psi is not going to do it for you so you are correct that a rebuild is in your future. The fuel pump does not self prime so if it is dry it will never pump fuel. It works on oscillating air pressure from the crankcase caused by the piston moving up and down this is why is is crucial in all two cycle engines that the crankcase is air tight. The most common failure (but not the only one) is the crankshaft seals. Whatever type of rebuild you do you must replace the seals.

If you want to pursue starting the engine (although with 60 psi the point may be rather moot) you need to prime the pump. To do this remove the line into the carburetor and wrap a shop rag around the tank filler to make a sort of gasket to seal you lips, now blow until the fuel vents from the pipe. Reconnect and try to start.

Your choices on rebuilds are going to be a top end only at ~ $200. This will give you a new piston, cylinder, gaskets and so on. Also available is a complete rebuild at ~$400 which gives you basically a new engine, the only original parts will be the crankcase. halves and the cylinder head. The call is yours but you could try this simple test. Grab the engine clutch and try to lift the engine whilst looking at the crankshaft. If you see or feel any movement of the shaft relative to the case then your bearings or crankshaft are worn and need replacing.

As a slight caveat there is always a tendency to promote what you did yourself as the way to go and I suppose that it is some sort of self justification. I used the complete rebuild kit along with a new pump and carburetor, so I would naturally suggest that is what you should do. However the cart now runs as it did when new. It out performs my buddies with their 2000 series 9hp and even 11 hp four cycles. With the minimum of maintenance I expect it to now last forever. That said it is your money and your cart you should do what you think is best. Whatever you decide there will be a willing group of enthusiasts here to assist.

Good luck
Dave