RXV won’t go in forward or reverse..sometimes?

[braze]

would the motor brake be the same in my 2015 as one in a 2010? my friend has a 2010 that i can swap the motor brake from and try out

[usgicollector]

Yes but if you ever buy another brake make sure it is a EZGO OEM brake.

Replacing the Park Brake on an E-Z-GO RXV

Remove the two T27 torx screws on the rear cover
Choke the wheels
Disconnect the negative cable on the battery pack
Turn the ignition key to reverse, wait till the reverse indicator becomes silent then turn key off
Disconnect wire harness from motor brake
Remove the three 10mm hex screws and lock washers from brake
If bolts are rusty replace them
Remove brake if there is residue on motor be sure to clean it use a wire brush
Position the brake with the connector at the top, install the three hex screws loosely.
Connect wire harness to the motor brake, re-connect battery negative cable
Turn ignition to neutral, turn Run/Tow switch to Tow position, this provides power to the brake to align the disc material
Set torque wrench between 53 to 65 in. lbs (6-8 Nm) and tighten screws be sure not to over tighten
Turn key back to the off position
Move Run/Tow switch back to Run position
Put rear back cover on

[braze]

just took it out for a drive and noticed a little more of the issue. If im driving and let off the pedal to decelerate then push the pedal to the floor the cart wont move, like its lost all power. If I let off the pedal to decelerate i need to slowly push the pedal to the floor in order to keep going or it acts like all power is shut off. Same thing in reverse as well. I slowly pushed the pedal down to reverse and all was good, if i push the pedal to far to quick then it wont move.
The original problem is still happening, this is just something else i noticed once it did actually want to move. It doesnt feel like the motor brake is locking up but its kinda making me think thats more possibility of the problem now.
Any input?

[wingnut2000]

Originally Posted by braze

just took it out for a drive and noticed a little more of the issue. If im driving and let off the pedal to decelerate then push the pedal to the floor the cart wont move, like its lost all power. If I let off the pedal to decelerate i need to slowly push the pedal to the floor in order to keep going or it acts like all power is shut off. Same thing in reverse as well. I slowly pushed the pedal down to reverse and all was good, if i push the pedal to far to quick then it wont move.
The original problem is still happening, this is just something else i noticed once it did actually want to move. It doesnt feel like the motor brake is locking up but its kinda making me think thats more possibility of the problem now.
Any input?

maybe a speed sensor issue maybe?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by braze

just took it out for a drive and noticed a little more of the issue. If im driving and let off the pedal to decelerate then push the pedal to the floor the cart wont move, like its lost all power. If I let off the pedal to decelerate i need to slowly push the pedal to the floor in order to keep going or it acts like all power is shut off. Same thing in reverse as well. I slowly pushed the pedal down to reverse and all was good, if i push the pedal to far to quick then it wont move.
The original problem is still happening, this is just something else i noticed once it did actually want to move. It doesnt feel like the motor brake is locking up but its kinda making me think thats more possibility of the problem now.
Any input?

That sounds more like a pack voltage sagging issue interfering with the controller being able to operate. If it drops under 42V under load at the controller, that will happen.

[braze]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

That sounds more like a pack voltage sagging issue interfering with the controller being able to operate. If it drops under 42V under load at the controller, that will happen.

Bob, so what do you think would cause this? Bad batteries? They are U.S. Battery from 2018. The PO had the auto drip system installed and i checked the batteries a few weeks ago(the night i purchased it). The acid level was all over the place but none were low, almost all were overfilled. I pulled the batteries to clean everything and there was crusted and some gooey acid everywhere

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by braze

Bob, so what do you think would cause this? Bad batteries? They are U.S. Battery from 2018. The PO had the auto drip system installed and i checked the batteries a few weeks ago(the night i purchased it). The acid level was all over the place but none were low, almost all were overfilled. I pulled the batteries to clean everything and there was crusted and some gooey acid everywhere

Typically, chronic undercharging of the pack. Tapping a single 12V battery for lights will also cause the pack to go out of balance and cause that one battery to be chronically undercharged.

[braze]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Typically, chronic undercharging of the pack. Tapping a single 12V battery for lights will also cause the pack to go out of balance and cause that one battery to be chronically undercharged.

The cart has never had lights, USB etc hooked to a single battery. I installed a 48v-12v converter but this problem was in place before then anyways.
I have a 48V TXT with 1 year old Trojans. I will swap batteries and see if it does anything.
Thank you for the input