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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 11-26-2016, 10:49 PM   #1
Onebadbug
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Default Made a mistake.

Accidently touched the red and black wires together on the SOC meter connector (I was looking for a power source) there was a slight buzz, then a crack sound. Sounded like it came from the solenoid/controller area. I checked the fuses I could see, all were good. I knew it was not good. Now when I turn the ignition key to reverse, neutral, or forward the solenoid engages and and sounds like it quickly disengages, the buzzer sounds if in reverse, goes off in neutral or forward, and the cart won't move. If I turn the cart off, there is no sound (like the sound of the solenoid disengaging)' should there be? Any ideas? 2009 RXV.
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Old 11-27-2016, 12:59 AM   #2
BobBoyce
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onebadbug View Post
Accidently touched the red and black wires together on the SOC meter connector (I was looking for a power source) there was a slight buzz, then a crack sound. Sounded like it came from the solenoid/controller area. I checked the fuses I could see, all were good. I knew it was not good. Now when I turn the ignition key to reverse, neutral, or forward the solenoid engages and and sounds like it quickly disengages, the buzzer sounds if in reverse, goes off in neutral or forward, and the cart won't move. If I turn the cart off, there is no sound (like the sound of the solenoid disengaging)' should there be? Any ideas? 2009 RXV.
A 2009 RXV only has one fuse, 10 Amp, under the cap of the plug/socket with 2 yellow wires that is attached to the plastic cover over the controller. If that fuse were blown, it would do nothing at all. It sounds like you may have shorted the red wire to the grey wire in the SOC connector instead, Keyswitch +48V to Logic +5V in the controller. Probing that connector and shorting those pins is the quickest way to kill the RXV controller.

Bob
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Old 11-27-2016, 07:06 AM   #3
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

Bob, thank you. So I checked my 5 volt circuit #3 & #4 on my 23 pin connector with the key on, no 5v power. I thought this may be due to my solenoid engaging and establishing continuity for a second and then dropping out. I tested it too last night and it is initially establishing continuity but then quickly dropping out. I was hoping the solenoid dropping out was the cause and the effect was no 5 volt power, but it sounds like you are thinking no 5 volt power and this is causing the solenoid to drop out? Am I understanding you correctly?
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #4
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

I'd start with the solenoid.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:34 AM   #5
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

So 2 tiny little 16g wires touching somehow fried the solenoid.?? Don't worry about the solenoid, a new one is included with the controller retrofit kit you need to repair the cart. Sorry friend, your controller's dead.
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:56 PM   #6
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

FF Titus, so I disconnected all of my wires from the solenoid, first I tested continuity from one side of the small post to the other side of the small post, with my meter set on ohm's with tone, I had resistance but no tone. Hmmm. Then I tested for continuity between the larger terminals, no tone. Then I left my tester connected to my two large posts on the solenoid, and applied 48v power to one small post, and ground to the other small post. Immediately the coil energized and the two large posts achieved and maintained continuity until I disconnected the ground wire. This was unlike my starting sequence where when key was turned on, the coil would energize and quickly de-energize.
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:12 PM   #7
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

I can live with that (my fault), solenoid tested good, removed the controller and found where the crack sound came from (burnt spot on board). So now what do I buy to make my cart faster! I like acceleration and speed, what are my options?
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:43 PM   #8
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onebadbug View Post
Bob, thank you. So I checked my 5 volt circuit #3 & #4 on my 23 pin connector with the key on, no 5v power. I thought this may be due to my solenoid engaging and establishing continuity for a second and then dropping out. I tested it too last night and it is initially establishing continuity but then quickly dropping out. I was hoping the solenoid dropping out was the cause and the effect was no 5 volt power, but it sounds like you are thinking no 5 volt power and this is causing the solenoid to drop out? Am I understanding you correctly?
There is no 5V because you fried the 5V logic circuit and power supply. In that state, even FSIP cannot economically repair the controller because every 5V device in the controller is fried, as well as any other devices on the 5V bus. If the +48V was shorted to the +5V long enough, it can take out the throttle and brake encoders, and the motor speed sensor. It usually does not do this. If the 10 Amp KSI fuse did not blow, likely the power was not shorted long enough to feed through the controller and out to the sensor/encoders.

Probing the RXV SOC meter socket is a very bad idea because it only takes a tiny fraction of a second of +48V (red wire) hitting the center pin (grey wire) to totally destroy a controller.

Your lowest cost alternative is to upgrade to a Curtis controller, and they are better than the Danaher. A seller on eBay has factory new (2016 date code) 1206AC-5211 complete controller kits for $275 + $25 shipping each. I've bought multiple RXV controllers from this guy. Here is the link...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172413719878

Convert your existing harness to work with the Curtis controller. I've done this several times. You can buy the 35 pin connector from Howland. You might have to call them to order, their online order system was not working last time I tried. The link is here...

https://howlandtechnology.com/store/...-776164-1.html

I've posted the conversion information and diagrams. Conversion info...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1318997

Wiring diagrams...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...am-photos.html

I posted both Danaher and Curtis RXV wiring diagrams in other threads, but I cannot find them right now. You can go with a freedom mode upgrade to get up to 19.5 MPH with stock tires. Larger tires will speed you up but with a loss of torque. The Curtis controller will deliver more torque than the Danaher. Good luck with the RXV repair.

Bob
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Old 11-27-2016, 04:47 PM   #9
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

Bob, thank you. Ordered the Curtis controller you recommended, nice price too. I also ordered the connector from a local shop on eBay. I noticed the controller says "RXV Fleet", can my local EZGO shop still reprogram my cart to 19.5 mph?
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:35 PM   #10
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Default Re: Made a mistake.

If they have a passkey and a Curtis programmer they can. Give them a call and find out.
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