Need a wiring check

[Bajrang]

I would really appreciate it if someone knowledgeable would take a look at this home made schematic for our cobbled together DS project before I hand it over to the kids. Parts came from old EZGO & Club Car bits. Some of the colors may depend more on what we have around, and not necessarily on industry standard. It's a 36 volt EZGO motor, rear-end & solenoid, 93 Club Car DS chassis, Club Car F/R switch, and a Curtis Controller. Probably because I left the sixties a day too late, all the on-line schematics began to look like those Escher staircase pictures. Thanks
Bajrang
http://www.morethanthecar.com/

[Sergio]

Remove that Red cable from pack positive to bottom of FNR (#1 and #2).

The Blue cable from Controller A2 goes to to #1 and #2 on the FNR.

The idea is that You reverse the current through the Motor Stator coil S1 and S2 between M- and A2.

Be careful with the Throttle wiring, the colors and your reference to "Potentiometer micro" indicate a problem.

The 36v circuit from the Key switch goes to the micro-switch N.C. terminal and the micro-switch Common terminal goes to the FNR micro-switch.

The throttle wiper signal goes to Controller "C" (bottom terminal).

The bottom of the throttle (pedal up resting position) goes to Controller B-.

The top (+5v power) of the throttle (Pedal down position) comes from Controller "B" (middle terminal).

[Bajrang]

Thank You, Thank, You, Thank You.
This is how things sometimes end up when I draw from too many sources. I finely find a schematic with a V-glide that has a plug with three wires, then I draw it, then a CC F/R with only one micro switch, then I try to follow all the wires in four or five schematics and, cross-eyed I go to bed. I wasn't completely kidding about leaving the sixties a day too late, I really struggle with the electrics. Mechanical things I can do. I can point out a non original bit of bone inlay in a 16th century firearm stock, but follow a blue wire into a maze drops me to my knees. I've been fooling with these carts in our community for twenty years, I just need to sit down with someone and have it (slowly) explained.
I'll draw up a new one tomorrow and post it. Thank you again.

[Bajrang]

Starting a little more slowly. Going back over my pile of drawings, I found several discrepancies and confusions. Would you please give these two a look?

[Sergio]

Those 2 drawings are right.

There are a lot of different ways to properly wire a FNR switch for a Series cart, unfortunately some layouts only work for a non-controller cart.

I think the safest and most logical way to wire it is to land the S1 and S2 cables on the swivel posts of the FNR, like you have it.

The use of the A2 terminal on the controller is optional as it only provides a "plug brake" feature, which is triggered by changing directions with the accelerator pedal still pressed.

While A2 is optional, when used it must be wired exactly as shown since there is an internal diode on the Controller that is connected between B+ and A2 terminals (the cathode is connected to B+ and the anode is connected to A2).

[Bajrang]

Here is step 3, thanks for helping us with these.

[Sergio]

That one is good too.

[Bajrang]

Thanks again, I've taken the 36 volt EZGO rear end/motor and controller from Sparky (avatar picture) for her CC DS project, I may impose upon you again when I get back to the 48 volt conversion for Sparky.
Bajrang
www.morethanthecar.com

[Bajrang]

Emma's DS project is wired exactly like the above drawings. BUT...as we started on the first test drive (back now to using a CC DS motor and diff) it ran backward. Went over the wiring three times, no change. Reversed S1 & S2 at the motor (easier than at the F/R switch) and it worked fine. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Brian
www.morethanthecar.com