PDS Controller/Solenoid picture

[Timberwolflt]

Thanks Johnnie
I had found that diagram in one of your other posts and have been studying it pretty closely for the past couple days... I have several of your relevant diagrams saved to my phone for quick reference... they are greatly appreciated

The yellow wire had full pack voltage and so did the blue one when the key was on and the micro switch activated.... wasn’t making sense in my common mechanic head... I just wanted to see the solenoid click but didn’t know how... I’m pretty sure the solenoid is no good... at least I’m hoping...

I do have a new stock controller that I bought from ScottyB last week.... now I’m thinking that I may have 2 good controllers... I took the PO’s word that the controller was bad... he had said that the solenoid was brand new

Also, the reverse beeper don’t beep but it’s gettin power so I’m assuming it’s bad also... I just don’t know if it a necessary component to the PDS... I have a new one of those on the way too just in case... if it ain’t integral to the run system... it’ll be immediately disconnected because they annoy the hell out of me

I also bypassed the reed switch at the charge receptacle because there weren’t a reed switch in there

[kgsc]

Blue wire will have pack voltage until the controller sends it a “ground “ signal. The solenoid is just a coil of wire so your pack voltage reading was coming from the yellow wire. When it gets a ground blue should go to zero. Unless I have completely lost my mind. Try what was suggested and with the rear on jacks ground the blue to pack negative and try it. If it activates and goes, bad controller.

[Timberwolflt]

Yeah it’s been on Jacks for three days in anticipation of a breakthrough…Not a single wheel has turned…lol

Waiting on a couple of new parts… Then I’ll try it again

[Timberwolflt]

I know now why everyone has so many “intermittent” problems

One minute my microswitch is working fine… Next minute nothing. So I checked all voltages on Johnny B’s hot path... all good… The next minute not good…

I just happened to leave my probe Stuck in the feed side of the microswitch… Dead as hell… I just happen to brush the run tow switch With the back of my hand and the voltage jumped on my DVM. So I lift on the run tow switch harness… Full pack voltage...I let it go...Dead as hell

So I test the 4 run tow pins individually... all good… But the microswitch is dead as hell…
Turns out the extra pressure from the probe causes them to connect individually... As soon as you pull probe back...They no longer get connectivity

Same issue at J4 pin 1

So now I’m really annoyed with the asshats who designed the most inefficient pin connections I’ve ever encountered... and so small, I can’t see them good enough to figure out what they need to make them connect

It didn’t help any that the buzzer on this cart was no good

On the upside... at one point, all the stars lined up and I got the cart to lurch forward ( three days on jack stands and nothing... set it down to move it and accidentally finally got a response)

Got my new solenoid and suddenly the old one decides it wants to work... maybe that’s intermittent too because before, it wouldn’t click or respond to a standard jump test

I guess I need new connector plugs, even though they look fine to the naked eye (if maybe a tad blurry with my old man eyesight)

And now I know why otherwise competent mechanics struggle so much with these stinking golf carts... because... golf carts lie, cheat, and deceive the second you pull your probe back... and then laugh at you while you scratch your head

[JohnnieB]

Electric golf carts are well know for their resistentialism (Seemingly spiteful behavior manifested by inanimate objects.), especially the PDS.

The molex plugs with male pins of the EZGO wiring harness aren't too bad, but the spring fingers in the jacks on the Curtis 1206MX controller do leave a lot to be desired. (see attached picture)

A good spray cleaning of the plugs and jacks often cures some of the intermittent problems for a while, but the best answer is to replace the stock controller with an Alltrax XCT48400-PDS (or larger).

[Timberwolflt]

And just like that... after two weeks of studying, learning, probing, prodding, expert pestering, parts purchasing, cussing, and head scratching... it functions as it’s supposed to... all over a couple little lying ******* pin connectors inside plugs that all appeared good and tested good...

On the upside I have brand new....

Battery pack
HD Battery cables
Controller (probably have two good ones)
Solenoid (now have 2 good ones)
Ignition switch
Digital voltage meter
FNR Rocker switch
Buzzer
And a brand new body-off paint job (it’s what I did between parts orderin/waitin on parts/head scratchin probing sessions)

And on the downside...
Spent a lot of money I probably didn’t have to...

BUT

Maybe I can run a while with the new parts until I can find the little ******* pin connector plugs that caused all the trouble...

Thanks again for all your help fellas
We’ll talk again when this lyin, cheatin, deceivin golf cart starts kickin on my *** again

If y’all need any advice in my areas of expertise... residential construction, Horse training, Hay farmin, or wife pleasing... (three of those are my professions and I’m very good at them) don’t hesitate to ask... I owe ya

[Timberwolflt]

Adding a picture just in case somebody is looking for one.... Now that I believe that I have it wired correctly

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Timberwolflt

Adding a picture just in case somebody is looking for one.... Now that I believe that I have it wired correctly

Appears to be wired correctly, but the stacking order is wrong.

The heaviest cable goes on the electrical terminals (studs) first.

The solenoid's battery side large terminal should be stacked as follows: Cable from battery pack, red wire to J1 Pin-5 and pre-charge resistor lead on last.