2pg carb question

[Dave Box]

There is no tip on the needle (it is in the right way, yes?). The evidence suggests that the valve is sometimes not closing, fuel from the breather and flooding. I know that it is a pain removing the carburetor but I suggest that you remove it then remove the bowl and turn it upside down so that the float is holding the valve closed. Now blow into the fuel intake and see if it is air tight. You can bend the center tab upwards a little so that the valve closes earlier and that might be all it needs.

Good luck

Dave

[frodrummer]

Problem solved! Hooray! Pulled the needle from the old carb and cleaned it up. It has a black tip where the new one has a bare metal tip. Bent the float tab up a little, maybe a 32nd. Threw it all back together for the 8th time, and its running a lot smoother now. Now if I can figure out why it's so gutless going uphill I will be a really happy camper. New belts so has to be clutches... Driven clutch just spins. It never opens or closes when running on jacks with the seat off.

[Dave Box]

How bizarre, there is certainly no tip on mine and the drawing in the manual just shows a chamfered end. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...-carb24002.jpg Still the main thing is that you got it right so kudos to you.

The clutch is a lot easier. If it never moves it has locked the cart in low gear. It might be as easy as just cleaning some rust off. The clutch is much easier to remove than the drive clutch as it is on splines. Once removed you will be able to see if the sheave is held on with a circlip or an hex key. In either case you will need to compress it and remove the locking device. Here is a useful video on how to disassemble the clutch although you can ignore the part about clocking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JED-oeXc-U

[frodrummer]

Awesome video. Is it just the one bolt in the center holding the clutch on? I am sure I can fashion some sort of compressor once I've got it off the cart. Another question. Once I expose the ramps, what do I look for to decide whether to replace them or not? Excessive wear?

[Dave Box]

Yes one bolt and it should just wriggle off as it is on splines. Depending on model it will be locked together with a circlip or a hex bolt but that is obvious when you get it off. Actally the ramps are protected by buttons which wear and might need to be replaced (these are cheap). If the ramps are worn then it may be too late. If the clutch is real ugly a new one, last time I looked, was ~ $165

Dave

[frodrummer]

I see. Yeah I priced a new clutch, but I would like to use my exhisting clutch if at all possible to save a little dough. Christmas is on the way, 3 kids....you know how it goes. Do you know where I might find a schematic or illustration for the driven clutch? Been trying to access one on the Bennetgolfcars website, but their site appears to be down.

Although these clutches are probably pretty simple, I like to have a good idea of how parts operate and how they are constructed before I go working on them.

[frodrummer]

Nevermind on the schematic, found one.

[frodrummer]

Do you have any experience with the "high performance" spring for the driven clutch? Worth the trouble, or is stock just as good on these old carts. I don't need to break the sound barrier, but a little more git-up would be fun.

[Dave Box]

If the spring is shot and you are going to replace it why not? However if it is good then I would just shim it with some big fat washers. This will effectively give it some more power which will delay the changing up. You will therefore see more low end torque without reducing top speed. It is a more scientific solution than running a shorter belt.

Dave

[1fast67]

Originally Posted by Dave Box

How bizarre, there is certainly no tip on mine and the drawing in the manual just shows a chamfered end. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...-carb24002.jpg Still the main thing is that you got it right so kudos to you.

The clutch is a lot easier. If it never moves it has locked the cart in low gear. It might be as easy as just cleaning some rust off. The clutch is much easier to remove than the drive clutch as it is on splines. Once removed you will be able to see if the sheave is held on with a circlip or an hex key. In either case you will need to compress it and remove the locking device. Here is a useful video on how to disassemble the clutch although you can ignore the part about clocking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JED-oeXc-U

The aftermarket rebuild kits have the rubber end on the needle. I think thats what the problem is with mine. I was having so many problems I got a different carb that im gonna try.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2