Ausco cable disc brake install thread

[scottyb]

The bakes were dragging a bit on this cart and I though it would get better but no luck there. So, I jacked it up and pulled a wheel. With a flashlight I could see there was a gap between the inner pad and the disc but not a gap between the outer pad and the disc.
This observation was made when the disc was held in tight against the hub as the wheel and lugs nuts will hold it.
Ausco says to remove the space washer between the hub and the bearing retainer ring if the outer pad is dragging.
I put a pair of washers on as shown on each side to space the pads outward. The result was a cart that rolled better than ever. Thought this might help somebody

[Swan]

[cgtech]

Not quite sure if this has been covered, or not, but these pads are not "use 'till it gets down to the metal backing plate". They eventually wear thin enough that they can't be properly adjusted, and that point is before the "meat" of the brake lining is totally gone. Hope this will help someone, it has helped me with troublesome ones. And, yes, the washers sometimes have to be tried, and reconfigured at initial installation to get everything right. This was a fun one on a electric RXV axle. yes I welded brake mounting plates on a hotrod Rxv axle, getting the pedal group to play nice could be a project in itself (I'm sure glad the bellcrank mounting point is included on all frames!)

[RaptorJP]

Just installed these on my 2002 TXT, easy to install and work great!!

[biggator]

Originally Posted by scottyb

The bakes were dragging a bit on this cart and I though it would get better but no luck there. So, I jacked it up and pulled a wheel. With a flashlight I could see there was a gap between the inner pad and the disc but not a gap between the outer pad and the disc.
This observation was made when the disc was held in tight against the hub as the wheel and lugs nuts will hold it.
Ausco says to remove the space washer between the hub and the bearing retainer ring if the outer pad is dragging.
I put a pair of washers on as shown on each side to space the pads outward. The result was a cart that rolled better than ever. Thought this might help somebody

Scotty -
I'm installing these now.. one side is perfect, the other looks like it needs a washer to turn freely (it's rubbing just enough to annoy me). What size did you use?

[Rurki]

I put these on last weekend to slow down after installing the FSIP Speed from ScottyB. Great stopping power now! Thanks for the detailed instructions as always.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Rurki

I put these on last weekend to slow down after installing the FSIP Speed from ScottyB. Great stopping power now! Thanks for the detailed instructions as always.

Thanks for the feedback. We are no longer an Ausco dealer. They changed their sales structure so cost escalated the further from MI the dealer was located. Being in CA we opted out. We suggest you contact MI Ausco dealer http://www.cartpartsplus.com/ with all of your sales and service questions.

[azTony]

Is that where we should go for replacement pads? I need pads on all 4 replaced

[scottyb]

Yes.

[rjsmeyer]

I'm trying to follow this, but there seems to be a gap in the steps. I've released the brake cable and removed the four backing plate bolts as described, but I don't see any way to remove the backing plate without getting the hub off the axle. And I was hoping that the steps with releasing the backing plate would help, but I still can't get the hub off even with using a puller. What's the trick for that?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by scottyb

Notice the TXT48 has the brake cable on top of the axle. Earlier years TXT and Marathon all had the cable below the axle. The caliper bracket is U shaped. For this cart the U will be right-side up and in earlier yrs it will be up side down.

I'm getting ahead of the work - remove the C clip retaining the brake cable sheath at the mounting OEM bracket. KEEP this clip, you will reuse it.

Remove the four break backing plate bolts and remove the backing plate and cable mount bracket. That sounds easy and it should be but, they are on there tight & in some cases these bolts are rusty or worse. Worse case scenario - you may need to replace the bolts. I never have had to in all my yrs as a tech. God blessed the southwest with an almost rust free environment. If you do replace them use hardened bolts as they hold the caliper in place here.

____________________________________________


Once the backing plate & cable mount is removed, grab hold of an end of the cable spring and pull it out and away - removing the spring from the cable.

On the bench, remove the mounting bracket from the caliper assembly using a 9/16 wrench and 7/32 hex head wrench or equivalent.