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Old 05-04-2019, 07:12 PM   #21
lockman1
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

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This little one:
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:43 PM   #22
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

Only 23hp? I dunno, it might not be fast enough.

You know you can just cut a longer peice of key stock?
I’d also use a grade 8 bolt on that to make sure that clutch doesn’t want to stretch the bolt and start walking around.
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:30 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

Thanks for all the tips! Keep them coming. Today I made progress. Had to notch the engine pan and drill new mounting holes for the new motor.



I was able to get the motor in place and began putting things back together. I will need to fashion a bracket for the shifter linkage.





I thought the Vanguard came with an onboard fuel pump, but that's not the case. Need to order one of those.

Also, not sure how tight to adjust the drive belt. I read to leave 1/2" of play, so we'll see how that goes.
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Old 05-05-2019, 03:10 PM   #24
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

1/2” to 3/4” sounds about right. The belt should not be tight, it should have some wiggle room at rest. If it’s too tight it will drag the primary clutch and that will make it difficult to shift, it can also make the cart “creep” forward or backward when the engine is running.

I don’t think that style clutch has a center bearing, and if that’s the case you need the belt a bit on the loose side so the clutch center shaft doesn’t burn the belt while it’s sitting at idle.
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Old 05-06-2019, 10:13 PM   #25
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

Made a little more progress today. I hooked up the electrical and ran new fuel lines to the motor. I decided to completely bypass the cart's governor and ran the throttle cable directly from the accelerator to the motor. The motor's governor will limit RPM's to 3600 for now.

Tomorrow, I'll install the exhaust, create a new bracket for the shifter cable, do final alignment of the drive belt and clutches before topping off the oil and cranking her over for the first time.
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:07 PM   #26
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

Ran into some problems. I'll be pulling the engine this weekend. I just noticed the oil drain plug no longer aligns with the cutout in the engine pan. I ordered an EZ Oil Change Valve to extend the drain over the cutout, fixing the misalignment issue. Once done, I will reinstall the motor, fill it with oil and look forward to firing it up for the first time.

New wheel spacers came today (4x1.5") which added 3" of width between the wheels. It looks much better with the beefier stance.

I'm also looking towards some of the exterior work that lies ahead. I am going to use Rhino-liner to change the existing top from white to black. I'll also paint the roof hoops, the seat support, and the front cowl hoop a satin black. The aluminum body panels are rather beat up. They'll need some TLC (polishing and clear coat).
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:32 PM   #27
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

I would avoid clear-coat on the aluminum. It will crack in the corners and trap moisture and dirt against the aluminum and make it corrode.

A good polish and regular wash with a non-basic soap will keep it looking very nice with minimal work.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:03 PM   #28
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

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I'm also looking towards some of the exterior work that lies ahead. I am going to use Rhino-liner to change the existing top from white to black. I'll also paint the roof hoops, the seat support, and the front cowl hoop a satin black. The aluminum body panels are rather beat up. They'll need some TLC (polishing and clear coat).
I would steer clear of using Rhino-liner. My truck bed has it, it sucks! Gets scraped up by sticks, never mind anything else. Can not speak to a better bed liner to use, as far as actual experience. I decided to go with Raptor liner for my cart, based on reviews I read, but don't have real world experience to confirm to anyone. Rhino-liner sucks....
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:24 AM   #29
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

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I would steer clear of using Rhino-liner. My truck bed has it, it sucks! Gets scraped up by sticks, never mind anything else. Can not speak to a better bed liner to use, as far as actual experience. I decided to go with Raptor liner for my cart, based on reviews I read, but don't have real world experience to confirm to anyone. Rhino-liner sucks....


I was using the name Rhino generically. I purchased a rustoleum product at Home Depot that was advertised as a bedliner. I will test it on some other plastic parts before coatingthe roof. But, thank you for the words of wisdom.


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Old 05-08-2019, 07:36 AM   #30
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Default Re: 2008 CC Carryall Rebuild

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Originally Posted by BlueDubPirate View Post
I was using the name Rhino generically. I purchased a rustoleum product at Home Depot that was advertised as a bedliner. I will test it on some other plastic parts before coatingthe roof. But, thank you for the words of wisdom.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rustoleum is the stuff I used in the bed of my Carryall. It's holding up pretty well. A few knicks and scrapes from cinder blocks and stuff, but nothing major and it's easy to touch up.

Don't know that I'd use it on a roof though... If you drive under a tree and branches scrape the roof you'll see all the little scratches/scrapes from rubbing on the branches. It doesn't actually "scratch" but like rubbing a stick on sandpaper you can see the line where it rubbed. Something with a "glossier" smoother finish would probably work better for something like a roof.
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