48v 2001 club car wont move but soleniod clicks

[cmar143]

Originally Posted by Tothanator

Yes that is what the setup is. You charge it the same.

The charger will click on but it will most definitely not charge the batteries correctly. 12V and 6V have different charging and equalization maps and they wont last long charging like that

[Tothanator]

I understand that. Would the cart at least move or work. Little bit like that? If so then that would not be my problem. If it won't work like that then I would understand but I want to get the cart working before I spend a bunch of money on new batteries. I know having them is not ideal but for just trying to get it working in didn't think it would be a problem. Let me know if my thinking is wrong on that.

[Sergio]

Does the voltage on the pack goes down when the solenoid clicks?

Do You get +48v on terminal #1 on the controller?

What is the voltage on Controller Terminal #3 from pedal up to pedal down (keep the yellow wire connected as you test)?

Remember to always have one of the rear wheels OFF the ground while performing diagnostics on electric carts.

[Tothanator]

Sergio I will check the voltage on tem 3 when I get home today. I know the #1 red wire is pover to the controller and it has 50v going to it when pedal is pressed.

[Tothanator]

Sergio the #3 startsunami at .5v and goes up to 6v . The #1 has 50v to it once pedal is pressed. Also the contactor works and is .5 ohms when closed

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Check the forward/reverse switch. Often, the wires will get hot and cause the back of the switch to melt at the swivel connectors. Look closely and you may see where the plastic has gotten hot and pooled up around the edge of the contact. This causes the switch to lose connection and the cart not to run.

[Tothanator]

Just checked and f/r switch seems good

[Sergio]

I would also do a resistance test of the entire motor current loop.

Disconnect the pack negative cable.

Put the FNR in forward.

Disconnect Controller M- cable.

Measure the resistance between the cable that was connected to M- and the solenoid big post connected to the Controller.

You should get a very low resistance if everything is right.

[Tothanator]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I would also do a resistance test of the entire motor current loop.

Disconnect the pack negative cable.

Put the FNR in forward.

Disconnect Controller M- cable.

Measure the resistance between the cable that was connected to M- and the solenoid big post connected to the Controller.

You should get a very low resistance if everything is right.

It reads OL

[Sergio]

0L means Open Line, so you have a bad connection or motor.

Keep the Multimeter probe on the Solenoid Big post and move the other probe until You find a resistance reading.

1. The FNR terminal where the M- cable is connected.

2. The FNR swivel Terminal that aligns with the previous terminal.

3. The other swivel post.

4. The Terminal that aligns with the previous swivel post.

5. Controller B+