Club Car doesn't move

[Ackerst]

Good morning, I have a cart that just stopped working. I checked and cleaned all battery terminals. I measured voltage across the batteries and have 49.7Vs but when I check voltage at the solenoid, I have 20v. I have taken the power wire coming from batteries and checked and I have 49.7 but when connected it drops back down to 20v. Any suggesting's would be appreciated. I do have a brand new F/R switch on it fyi.

[NoleFan4Ever]

What year and type cart (S#)? When you checked it at the solenoid was it on the battery side or on the motor/controller side?

[Ackerst]

It is an 03, Sn E0345-346699. Club Car Carryall 2 48v system. I've checked both side of the solenoid, 20v

[NoleFan4Ever]

Then something is grounding the solenoid. Take it off and test it. Be sure to remove the pack cables before touching it. Flip to "Tow" before you do anything if you have the Run/Tow switch.

Test it for continuity across the activation terminals (the small ones)
Test it to be open (no continuity) across the large ones
If all that checks out then apply 48 volts (+ & -) to the small posts and test for continuity across the large posts. (If it is failing due to corrosion internally it will cause low voltage)

Here is a video to help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYHzIDnU3Rw

[Ackerst]

That's what I suspected to begin with and took one off a known good cart I have here and still the same result. If I take off the yellow wire going to motor and recheck, the voltage jumps up to 33v. Could it possibly be the motor? Thanks for the help btw.

[Raystar57]

If the solenoid yellow wire is removed and you activate the solenoid and get only 33V on the solenoid stud
where the yellow wire was then something is not right.
You should get pack voltage there and be near 50V if the pack is charged.
You said it has 49.7V on it so it seems your source to it is good.

This sounds like a bad cable or still a bad solenoid.

Motor could have an issue but I think something is still not right with the solenoid or connections to it.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Yep, I am still leaning towards internal corrosion on the solenoid, but he said he swapped it, so I am a little puzzled. (And since the solenoid was open, I was ruling out the other side having an issue because its not in the loop unless the internals failed and it is stuck)

I would still remove that solenoid and test it as stated above. Then you can be 100% positive.

[Raystar57]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Yep, I am still leaning towards internal corrosion on the solenoid, but he said he swapped it, so I am a little puzzled. (And since the solenoid was open, I was ruling out the other side having an issue because its not in the loop unless the internals failed and it is stuck)

I would still remove that solenoid and test it as stated above. The you can be 100% positive.

I agree and there still may be an issue with a motor short causing issues with the solenoid main contacts old or new...

[Ackerst]

Thanks guys, will give that a whirl

[Golf cart guy]

Does the solenoid activate when you step on the pedal?

If yes, make sure you have good pack voltage under load.

If that is good,
just check continuity on the motor, don't have to disconnect anything, just see if F1-F2 are touching and A1-A2 are touching.

That's the simplest checks and will make it easy to figure out your issue