2004 Club Car Ds

[NoleFan4Ever]

In step #2, that is because the controller pulled it low (triggered the Neg) after receiving all the Pos inputs to the controller. Everything I am seeing you have an issue with that controller. Does it act any different if you place the rocker switch in Rev?

Did you ever lose the step #2 voltage on the blue/white wire why the Go Pedal was depressed and the motor was trying to move?

[kgsc]

This also could be a faulty solenoid. It might close and make contact but may not be able to provide enough current. With the cart in the air try jumping the main leads and see what happens.

[PhillipNichols]

Thanks NoleFan4Ever

I will complete the test again and check everything in rev.

I don’t want to get ahead of the testing but will the OBC keep the cart from running? The reason I ask is because the batteries were replaced the summer of last year. The owner let them die over the winter. I bypassed the OBC to charge the cart back up. After a full charge I reconnected everything back to factory. They have a strong discharge time and The Club Car Charger works fine now.
Could this have mess something up in the OBC that’s not sending the right signal to the controller?

Thank kgsc for your post.
When you say jump the main leads? Are you referring to the two heavy gauge wires on the solenoid?

[kgsc]

The obc will either let it run or not, no in between. Yes jump across the 2 main lugs.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by PhillipNichols

Thanks NoleFan4Ever

I will complete the test again and check everything in rev.

I don’t want to get ahead of the testing but will the OBC keep the cart from running?

I think I placed in one of your previous posts that the OBC's lockout circuit will prevent the cart from running, but yours was not active as it did sound the Rev buzzer and the cart did move.

I really want to hear if you lose the low (Neg) in step #2 after the motor tries to move or if it stays constant.

[PhillipNichols]

I am getting the same results in forward and reverse. As for step#2 it starts with no voltage, press the pedel I get 50.4 v, when the motor try’s to turn I lose the voltage and get it right back. Everytime the motor try’s to spin the voltage drops off.

I tried jumping the two main solenoid wires together and nothing happened.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Your controller is not functioning correctly.
MCOR Micro - Yes
MCOR O2C - Good
Solenoid Coil - Good
Solenoid Contacts (bypass) - Yes
Solenoid Inputs (48v +&-+) - Yes
OBC Lockout Circuit - Not Active
Speed Sensor - Good
Motor Continuity - Good
Motor Run Test - Good

By jumping out (bypassing) the solenoid main contacts you then proved it is not preventing current transfer to the controller, but the output from the controller to the motor still went erratic and will not allow it to run, even though the MCOR signal (input to the controller) was good and steady. You have a bad capacitor or circuit in the controller that has failed or is not working correctly. Need to call your supplier and ask them what is wrong because outside of some unusual circumstance, there is nothing else showing an issue.

[PhillipNichols]

Ok,

I have worked with FSIP and completed a few more tests before I could send the controller in for a second rebuild. Come to find out the solenoid was stuck in a position that intermittently would allow the motor to spin or try to spin.
Order a new solenoid from RedHawk, installed it and everything works great.

Thanks for all the help.