ITS Diagnostics

[Mpnoffi]

Hi Guys,
I replied to an old thread and it was suggested that I start a new thread to get better advice so here goes...

The EZGO Diagnostics sticky suggests that we put a jack under the rear to lift the tires and slowly apply throttle.

When I read this thread, it makes me leary of doing so.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-exploder.html

My post/question is at the very end...

Any input before I blow this thing up?

thanks
mpnoffi

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Mpnoffi

I know that this is an old thread, but I want to make sure that I understand how to do this before I blow something up...

I have just upgraded my carts electrics and I am not getting very good results and I think the ITS sensor is the culprit because when I bought it, the brake was stuck, the accelerator pedal was bent as if someone had stomped it to release the brake pedal.

96 TXT
Series motor
Alltrax AXE4855 500 Amp controller
Super HD Solenoid
Scotty B's HD F/R switch
2 ga cables
new Trojan t-105's at 38.2v

In the EZGO Diagnostics sticky, I read these instructions on how to test my ITS:

"Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective."

I am confused about how to do this without having my motor blow like the guy in this thread. Any experience you guys can share?
mpnoffi

Originally Posted by Mpnoffi

Hi Guys,
I replied to an old thread and it was suggested that I start a new thread to get better advice so here goes...

The EZGO Diagnostics sticky suggests that we put a jack under the rear to lift the tires and slowly apply throttle.

When I read this thread, it makes me leary of doing so.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-exploder.html

My post/question is at the very end...

Any input before I blow this thing up?

thanks
mpnoffi

I did a Cut&Paste and brought your original post over here.

Glad to see you exercise due care and caution.

I see you are running a stock motor with a 36V battery pack, and the method described is the way EZGO spells it out in their service manual, so there should be little danger of exploding the motor. However, it is a 13 year old motor with an unknown service history, so I wouldn't run it WOT with no load very long.

Since, you are checking the ITS, you don't need to spin the motor, so disconnect the cable from the M- terminal on the controller while making your ITS voltage measurements.

Once, you've verified the ITS is operating properly, or fixed it if it isn't, you can reconnect M- to motor and spin the motor unloaded at WOT momentarily if you so desire.

[Mpnoffi]

Fantastic! Thanks JohnnieB. I'll have just enough confidence to be dangerous now! I appreciate all the help you bring to the board.
thanks

[Mpnoffi]

one more quick question while I'm over analyzing this...

Quote from Diagnostics:
"With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached."
Where is BL+ ?

[JohnnieB]

BL+ (Battery Left Positive) is a left over from the Marathon days when the battery pack was split with three batteries on the Left and three on the Right.

BL+ now means the main positive terminal on the battery pack, wherever it is located.

I prefer the term B+ to indicate positive battery pack voltage.

------------
Here's a drawing showing B+ (BL+) and where to attach DVM lead for all voltage measurements, unless otherwise specified.

The jumper wire permanently energizes solenoid, so you don't have to press throttle pedal to make subsequent voltage measurements.

[Mpnoffi]

Gotcha. That info helped me and will likely help others searching this info...

Here are the results from my tests. I started with 38.2v but did some adjusting to the ITS senor first which dropped my pack voltage a little, so my tests are with a 38.0 pack voltage. Looks like everything is good to go except my ITS sensor. You guys let me know if you see anything else to be concerned with.

Testing of the EZGO ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROL - SERIES & PDS (NON DCS)
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE REMOVING CONTROLLER COVER. RE-CONNECT CABLE AFTER COVER IS REMOVED.
These test are to be conducted after making sure all wires and connections are clean and tight.
PLACE THE REAR OF THE CART SECURELY ON BLOCKS OR JACK STANDS FOR SAFETY
Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post. (This reading is the Battery Voltage and the amount of POWER TO THE CONTROLLER -

38.0v

NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).

38.0v

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

36.2v (1.8v less than pack voltage)

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.

37.9v

Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.

9.53v

Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.

14.04v
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.

RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.

.016v-.024v

Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

.055v

REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.

0.0v

Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.

36.5v at full throttle (but only for a quick second)
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.

Thanks for your help!!!

[yurtle]

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Says to adjust the ITS with a drill bit.

[Mpnoffi]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Says to adjust the ITS with a drill bit.

Thanks Yurtle. I did just that.

[Mpnoffi]

I'm looking on eBay for a replacement ITS sensor...ouch.
Any site sponsors that you guys would recommend that carry such a part? ScottyB, do you carry these? It was really good to do business with you on the controller/solenoid/F&R Switch.

I will post a WTB thread in the for sale section too if anyone has one for sale.
thanks,
mpnoffi

[scottyb]

The one on eBay is as cheap as you are going to find them.It just takes a long time for delivery from China.