G9 rebuilt eng. all checked, no start, need help

[johneich]

I drove this into the garage running fine yesterday, no start this morning.
I have pulled and wire brushed/cleaned the newish BR4ES NKG plug and blew off/out plug and cylinder chamber to make sure I am not flooding it. I have good spark on it.
Here is what has been done recently
Rebuilt engine by cart shop six months ago
Today, compression test 145 psi
Today, pulled carb, pulled the two screws and fuel bowl, cleaned all with carb cleaner, float moves up and down nicely so I did not pull it but I held it open and shot carb cleaner around it. (I could pull the float and needle valve and shoot carb cleaner in it if you guys tell me to.)
Today, Ordered new carb($18.00), gasket and adapter on ebay (please tell me if I need to buy a better carb)

Ignitor has been tested good about a month ago (Thanks sho305 for helping me find the loose wire in the harness)(I have a new ignitor on hand).
Fuel pup is new a month ago
Today, changed tank gas filter, drained and disposed of the fresh gas.
Today, bought new gas

What else can it be?

Fuel flow? here is a video of the fuel flow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMHFQV-C0nM

I am stumped, I use this cart on a daily basis year round and need it running for my dog training and chores (I know you like pics, attached are my hunting Boykin Spaniels, Grandmother, Daughter and Grandchild)

[raydhd]

My G14 would shoot the fuel half way across the garage.

[Dave in VA]

Blow backwards thru the pulse line to make sure it's not clogged. If you blow crap back into the crankcase, change the oil. The $18 carb will be hit or miss. Alot of them are crap. It's much better to rebuild the OEM carb with all new OEM parts--jets, float valve, needle valve etc.

[johneich]

The odd thing to me is that I can not start it on starting fluid, which would bypass any needle/mixing valve - fuel issues, right? and I have a bright strong spark.

[meimk]

Do you get a "pop", backfire or anything with your strong spark and starting fluid? Accelerator cables moving? If the carb butterfly doesn't open it won't get your starter fluid into the engine.

[Prowlerguy1]

Swap the old plug back in it.....just for giggles.

I have had plugs that would fire all day when pulled and testing - but would not fire under compression. Can't explain it, but it's happened to me.

Somehow the spark has to be going away - if it won't even pop with starter fluid sprayed into the carb.

Hope you find the gremlin.

R/Todd

[johneich]

Yes, it pops and backfires, I am wondering if it jumped time?

[meimk]

Originally Posted by johneich

Yes, it pops and backfires, I am wondering if it jumped time?

It has pulsar that triggers right off the flywheel. Unless the flywheel has spun somehow it can't jump time.

Did you verify the accelerator & governor cables are opening the carb butterfly?
I only ask again because I've had several Yami's come to me with bad cables.

[johneich]

Originally Posted by meimk

It has pulsar that triggers right off the flywheel. Unless the flywheel has spun somehow it can't jump time.

Did you verify the accelerator & governor cables are opening the carb butterfly?
I only ask again because I've had several Yami's come to me with bad cables.

Yes, the cables operate fine and smooth, open/close the butterfly, still stumped

[Spicyunicorn]

I have seen sheared flywheel keys that will definitely throw the timing off I would pull the shroud off and take a look at the fly wheel and make sure the key wasn't sheared off