Drive clutch not closing gap

[Scud]

Hi, I jacked up the rear wheels pulled the tires, hit the wheels with a mallet and got them free. So that problem is solved. Cart running very poorly though.

The attached video shows how it's running. Bogs down every few feet. I throttle the choke and let it back in and get a little surge. New plug - pulled it and know it will spark against metal. Took the air filter out - it was filthy. I know there is gas in the spark plug hole.

Does it sound like an air issue? Any advice will be appreciated.

[mcdave71]

Carb is gummed up. Time to take it apart and clean the crud out.

[Scud]

Ok...that will be tomorrow's project. I'm sure there a thread on here on how to clean the carb. Thanks again.

[Scud]

Pulled the carb out today and cleaned. The outside was covered in crud (couldn't even recognize any parts) but the inside looked pretty good - none of the laquer I saw on some of the videos. All the jets were clear except the fuel inlet. I had a hard time cleaning that one as I didn't have the tools to take it completely apart. Anyway, the cleaner was squirting back out ( learned carb cleaner doesn't blind). I was able to blow the cleaner though a tubee I found. I think it was clean but had to blow pretty hard (with float in open position). Is that normal?

Put back on, ran better than it ever has under my ownership. Fast - for about a mile. Then, started to bog down a little - every now and then - still running with the the occasional bog down.

Any ideas on how to get running optimally?

[mcdave71]

Sounds like the fuel line might still be slightly clogged. You fixed it some by blowing through. To me it sounds like the fuel bowl is running out of fuel. Just not flowing fast enough.

[Scud]

Thanks. Probably time to replace the fuel lines and filter. Don't know how old they are. I did check that gas was being pumped when I had the lines off. When it bogs down, if I pull the choke, it does start to move again. That does sound like a lack of fuel, correct?

Also watched a video on carb cleaning. I did not pull the pin to remove the float I was afraid of damaging the pin - any trick to pulling that pin. It is possible I didn't clean the needle valve well enough, though it did run great just after the cleaning. Could have gunk in the fuel but I don't see anything in the filter.

I'll check / replace the lines tomorrow or the next few days. Thanks again.

[mcdave71]

The pin holding the float on should just slide out once the bowl is out of the way. Some will think they need to pin it in but they don't realize it can't go anywhere once carb is all back together.
Not sure about your specific carb but once you get the pin out with carb upside down, carefully lift straight up to pull the needle valve out with it. This happens if there's a little hanger that attaches the needle to the float. If the needle is all metal that means there is a rubber seat in the carb. If the tip of the needle is rubber then nothing in the seat. Reason I mention this is I have not paid attention and used an air hose to blow of fuel fitting and had that little bitty rubber seat go flying never to be found again.
I'll also mention that the main jet can be taken out and by using a sewing needle, cleaned of crud but you mention it was running fine there for a bit so that might be good to go already.

[Scud]

Thanks for that detail on the needle valve. That's experience talking! That is the only part I may not have cleaned thoroughly. One question: if you were to attached a tube to the fitting on the fuel inlet, let the float hang down (so valve is open), and blow though the tube, would you expect air to flow freely? I was blowing through but getting some push back.

I'll check the line first. Hoping to not have to remove the carb again. Thanks again!

[mcdave71]

I wouldn't say it would be free flowing but I believe you should have more than what you're describing. One thing also to check for is make sure the needle doesn't stick in it's hole any at all. It should easily drop down when the float is down. I prefer using the carb cleaner that comes in the gallon cans to soak metal parts but if you don't have multiple things to clean in it over the next couple years, not worth the hassle, but really gets stuff clean. You soak it for a few hours or more, blow everything with an air hose then rinse with a shot of brake cleaner and you're good as new. Just don't put rubber in it or soak plastic for too long.

[Scud]

Great news...took it for a long spin and it's running great. Only "bogged down" after a long hill and I figure that is the governor (need to learn about governors next). Fuel line acutally looks pretty good as does the filter, so I think I will just run for a while.

Now I need a new seats - wood and all. Any recomendations on where to buy? Will take used in good condition if available but if not will buy new - must have to run this thing.

Yes, saw that bucket on a YouTube video (great series of videos on cleaning a DS carb). Looks like a much better way to go about it. I have an old Club Car DS I would like to get running better (governor seems severe in that one). I will look into the cost of the bucket. I may have a new hobby. Have three old carts without really trying - can't resist buying or taking an old one when it comes along. Would like to take a shot at restoring one of them to nice condition. Any money in fixing these things up and reselling?

Thanks for sticking with me Mcdave71! Thanks for the tip on the locked brakes Robey! No way I could have gotten this thing runing without your help!

Let me know if anyone has a recomended site for seats and other accessories.