2010 RXV intermittent problem

[BFR549]

Turn Key on, hear beeps and sounds like motor is engaging but cart does not move when I step on accelerator pedal. Same in reverse. This is intermittent problem. I replaced solenoid for an easy cheap repair to see if it resolved problem but it didn't. Trying to help a lady in campground from having to pay for a service call.
Leaning towards throttle sensor or controller.
Sooo
1. Would anyone just recommend just taking cart to a service center to get diagnosed?
2. Or does anyone have suggestions?
3. I did read something about pin connector for throttle sensor. Could that be a possibility?

Thank you for help!!

[cgtech]

Unless you are really dedicated to this project, sending it in (to a real Ezgo dealer) might be the best.
Could be some simple things, like floor mats preventing pedals from returning fully to at-rest position, or crud in pedal box. Could be a failing motor brake. Or it could be more serious problems. Only thing I know for sure is it sounds like it's failing the "self test" when the key is turned on. Rxv can be very hard to diagnose without the factory diagnostic tool, most golf cart shops don't have it, nor fully understand the Rxv systems.

[BFR549]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Unless you are really dedicated to this project, sending it in (to a real Ezgo dealer) might be the best.
Could be some simple things, like floor mats preventing pedals from returning fully to at-rest position, or crud in pedal box. Could be a failing motor brake. Or it could be more serious problems. Only thing I know for sure is it sounds like it's failing the "self test" when the key is turned on. Rxv can be very hard to diagnose without the factory diagnostic tool, most golf cart shops don't have it, nor fully understand the Rxv systems.

Thank you. I was expecting that response. But figured it was worth a try!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MentorPilot]

I am picking up this thread late, but I have the very same problem. I have had it for a couple of years!

RXV will sometimes not run, but multiple efforts at simply switching from OFF to F or to R will get it working. It has NEVER left me stranded. This happens only about 15% of the time. Always from OFF to R or F. It never happens between R and F.

I would love to know what others have learned about similar problems.

BTW, I have replaced the solenoid, the key switch, and the pedal switch.

Thanks!

[basshawk84]

The next time it does it, turn the key switch to off and pull back on the accelerator pedal. Then turn the key switch back on and see if it works. If it does it could be crap/dirt under the mat around the accelerator pedal spring or could be the spring is a bit weak. I had one a couple of weeks ago do the same thing. I took the floor mat out, cleaned around the spring and pedal assembly, put some gun oil on the spring and wedged a piece of rubber tubing on one end of the accelerator spring and that gave it enough strength to bring the pedal back up straight every time.

[PuttPutt]

+1 all the above. The RXV is voltage sensitive, the back battery gets neglected
make sure all cables are clean and tight. Make sure all batteries are balanced, one battery with low voltage can cause problems. If the cart has accessories running off one battery and not off a voltage reducer that would be a red flag to me.

[HiTechRedNeck]

a failing or weak parking brake will cause the "have to turn key on several times" failure

[jkredman]

Do you have access to a Curtis handheld or digital multimeter?

If so, does the hand held show an HDP sequencing fault?

If you don’t have a handheld but a DVM check the resistance of the throttle switch and the brake switch. They need to be an ohm or less

Long story short, I have a cart where the brake switch, when closed had 7 ohms of resistance. That caused an Intermittent HDP Sequencing fault. Replacing the switch solved the problem.

[cgtech]

The controller doesn't give a F about ohms on the brake or throttle sensors. The controller feeds them both 5v, and expects a reading of about 0.45v at rest, and 4.75v at max "fully pressed" range. This is not a 0-5k potentiometer. It is a non-contact hall-effect sensor. The "rather tiny" sensor you bolt to the pedal has a hall-effect sensor inside that is effected by it's proximity to a magnet, moving the pedal swings a magnet nearer to the sensor, as it moves closer to the face of the sensor (about the size of a match head of a wooden match, but thinner), it increases the voltage fed back on the third wire. The controller checks if either sensor is "shorted out", then looks to see if the "at rest" values line up with what it expected to see. You can not test a hall effect sensor for proper operation with a "ohms" reading (although a "shorted out" one would reveal itself that way, the controller doesn't "ohm test them"). It applies voltage to them from a circuit that monitors, and can supply only a very small amount of amps. A good one draws only about 0.015 amps. If the amps are exceeded, it fails the test immediately.. I learned this stuff making my own upgrade systems for carts that didn't have any upgrades while I wated years for the XCT controllers to be released. I'm lucky I get to "try and make stuff", I had some of the smartest people in my line of work tell me "you can't do that, you can't make that work", I had some manufacturing places say stuff like "stop telling me you're doing this" over the phone. Voided warranties yes, but no fried controllers (a couple throttle sensors may have bit the dust while experimenting). That's what i like. That's what keeps it fun, and that's the only reason I ain't been fired yet, but tomorrow is a new day.

[BobBoyce]

cgtech, he's talking about the actual switch, not the encoder. The resistance caused voltage drop in the motor brake circuit, affecting the outcome of the powerup test. I remember when this occured.