Please eval my wiring diagram

[Goliath]

So I'm great at reading wiring diagrams. I occasionally repair vintage synth's for other ppl, and am very familiar with following wiring diagrams and tracing circuits.

I SUCK, however, at making them. I'm finally at the last stage of putting my '92 Western (Marathon chassis) together, and need to do the wiring. I gutted ALL the old wiring, so not one wire remains, and I'd like to string it this weekend.

Please let me know if the diagram looks complete, and feel free to make suggestions. I didn't want to add a second fuse box (48v) so if two buss bars are better, please let me know. I just didn't want multiple wires sandwiched under the main battery lugs.

Again, I haven't used Visio in 15 years, so the icons are not standard shapes, so please ignore the random use of rectangles!

[Goliath]

No takers?

Primarily wondering if there's a better method than the 48v fuse box...

If there's another forum which might provide better feedback, please suggest.

[Scarter]

I don’t understand the forward reverse relay.
Your powering off the 48v and grounding to the 12v?

[Swan]

maybe if people could see it

[Goliath]

@Scarter - When the cart is put into reverse, the contactor supplies +48v to turn on the relay, which then supplies +12v to the reverse lights.

@Swan - It's an attachment. Apparently Scarter was able to see it.
Do you not see the attachment?

[JohnnieB]

As Swan suggested, you might get more responses if people could readily see what you wanted looked at.

The way I do it is got to Edit in Adobe, select Take a Snapshot, click on page (or select area of page) and paste into MS Paint, then save it as a JPG when done. There may be a better way, but it works for me.

I've been know to read schematics and wiring diagrams as well as technical manuals halfway decently since I've been doing it professionally for over fifty years. Differentiating the +48V, -48V, +12V and -12V with different color lines would make the wiring diagram far more readable, or at least with different thicknesses of black lines. Switch labeling would be helpful as would identifying relay coil terminals vs relay contact terminals.

Using a fuse block for distribution of the 48V does clean up the main battery pack terminals.

[Goliath]

Thanks Johnnie, all good points. I was trying to figure out how to insert a pic like that, but then figured ppl may want to download it to see it larger.

Gonna pick up a second fuse block then.

Holy crap. When planning upgrades, I had no idea all the extras (fuse blocks, terminals, bolts/hardware (stainless), fab parts, switches etc, would add up to almost $1,000 more. Last time I make that mistake...

[JohnnieB]

Click on the attachment and it will display full screen, click on it again and it will appear full sized (797 x 1130 pixels)

I rotated while in Adobe and then went to full screen in Adobe to get that resolution, then rotated it back to upright in Paint. (Snapshot only captures what is on-screen in Adobe)

Instead of a fuse block for the 48V, I'd just use a couple non-fused bus bars for distribution. The 48V pack has more than 48.0V when fully charged while the highest arc-over voltage on most of the automotive type fuses is only 48V. (There are some 56V, but hard to find and $$$.) Just a single inline 1/4" x 1 1/4" cylindrical fuse (120V rated) ought to be protection enough for the +48V distribution block.

[Mooncarter]

I would have a separate switch for the light bar. Buts that's just me.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

I would have a separate switch for the light bar. Buts that's just me.

See what a mean about the switches need labeling.