COntroller vs. Battery question

[420ma]

F298 sounds like a date code, if so it was made in 1998 and could be a Medalist, TXT, Workhorse or an industrial type cart.

You mentioned the 1205M controller is an upgrade, if so, does the throttle input match the throttle type in cart?
IE: The controller may be set up for a 0-5K pot-box throttle input and the cart has an ITS.

Sounds like the solenoid is working.

Connect you voltmeter between the controller's B- and the M- terminals.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks. You should read FULL battery pack voltage.
Slowly press pedal to floor. The voltage should decrease to zero, or very near zero.

If not, the controller or the throttle input is bad.

Also verify there is pack voltage on Pin-1 (Pins 2&3 are the throttle input)

Which terminal on the controller needs to output voltage for the motor to spin forward

[420ma]

So the cart runs in reverse only. Ran in both directions this morning. I checked the throttle that's good, I'm.not sure how to troubleshoot the FR switch, it's the heavy duty from Cart unlimited. I'm trying to follow the voltage but I'm not exactly sure where the paths are for forward and reverse. 1993 marathon, Curtis controller, stick motor

[420ma]

So let me ask this a different way. Since I have reverse, what can I do to change the FR reverse position to have the motor go forward...

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 420ma

So the cart runs in reverse only. Ran in both directions this morning. I checked the throttle that's good, I'm.not sure how to troubleshoot the FR switch, it's the heavy duty from Cart unlimited. I'm trying to follow the voltage but I'm not exactly sure where the paths are for forward and reverse. 1993 marathon, Curtis controller, stick motor

I'm not sure which is which for a Marathon, but A->D & C->B is one direction and A->B & C->D is the other.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by 420ma

So let me ask this a different way. Since I have reverse, what can I do to change the FR reverse position to have the motor go forward...

Either swap the cables on B & D on the F/R OR swap the cables on S1 & S2 on the motor. (But not both)

[BobBoyce]

Most of the "modern" chinese Curtis clone controllers do not have the adjustable voltage setpoint parameter. The real Curtis controllers do, in the Advanced menus that would be accessable in Enhanced Serial protocol programming. The chinese Curtis clones do not support the Enhanced Serial protocol.

The chinese Curtis clone controllers will not be available for too much longer, as they are on the chopping block by the Trump administration because they employ Curtis IP (Intellectual Property) that was stolen by the chinese using obscure and sometimes conflicting business rules for foreign companies that want to manufacture their products in China. There are hundreds of chinese products on the chopping block that employ stolen IP. It took me 3 hours to review the list! I even found one of my patented products on the list, that had been copied and exported globally from China for many years. I tracked down the factory in Shenzen and tried to visit it while I was in China in 2012, but they had it secured in a fenced area with an access control gate. I complained to the China government there, but nothing ever came of it. I used that as a viable justification that if I shared more of my IP there to help them, my IP would get ripped off even worst.

A warning... if anyone wants to buy Lithium Cells from china, you had better hurry before the list becomes enforced. They are on the list!

Bob