PDS Battery Cable Failure

[virtualy]

I have a 2008 TXT/PDS with 36 volt system. It stays on a charger (Accusense, purchased from one of the site's vendors) 24/7. I use the cart to move people and materiel up and down the hill beside our house. It is used infrequently.

The cart has sat for awhile, unused but being charged. Two days ago I went out to use the cart and when the key was turned and reverse selected, it gave the usual reverse sound. However, when I engaged the throttle there was no response. Then the reverse alarm died. When I lifted the seat I noticed a LOT of green, "budding" corrosion on the main positive connection terminal. There was corrosion on a few other battery terminals but not green and not nearly as much. I check the battery water every 6 months, so I do look at the battery compartment on a regular basis. There has never been corrosion of any notable amount previously.

In looking closer, I saw a loose cable next to the green corroded terminal. It appeared to have been bonded to the main battery cable and the connection had broken. See attached pictures. I believe this cable may carry the charge to the battery bank as it terminates in the back of the box that receives the charging cable.

A few questions. Where might I locate a replacement for the broken cable connector? Is it bad to leave a charger connected continuously? I believe this charger is capable of switching to a float charge when the bank is full. Is there a preferred way to coat the battery terminals to prevent corrosion? Finally, the pack shows 37.5 volts. Off charger it is normally 38.2v. Have I toasted the bank?

Thanks ahead.

--P

[JohnnieB]

The battery pack is charged through the white and black 8Ga wires, and the broken thingy at the end of the white wire is a fuse. Typically 50A or 60A.

The DPI charger has internal fuses, so that fuse isn't needed unless you have kids around that might stick a metal object in the charge receptacle and short B+ to B-.

You batteries has not been being charged for as long as that fuse has been broken, so they are mighty low, but may be redeemable. If the DPI doesn't go into bulk charge phase (about 18A or so) shortly after attaching, charge the 6V batteries in pairs with a 12V charger half an hour or so for each pair, the reconnect the DPI.

Lead-Acid batteries can be float charged indefinitely. The 36V DPI I had stated it had float charge on the front panel. (see attached). To verify if you DPI does have float charge, measure the battery pack voltage while charger is attached and only Green LED and Power LED are on. For a 36V DPI in Trojan mode, it ought to be about 39.4V, but anyplace above about 38.5V and below 40.0V is fine.

Vaseline works, some people use a spray on protectorate from an auto parts store and others use NO-OX-ID and similar products.

[virtualy]

Much obliged.

[basshawk84]

Make sure your run/tow switch is in tow.

[virtualy]

Why tow?

[Raystar57]

Some things about Tow mode.
It's for general safety if you work on or tow the cart.
Controller is supposed to be isolated from the circuit so the motor generated voltage does not damage the unit.
In run mode if you tow, the motor will act like a generator and feed power into the controller.
They don't like that and can be damaged.

If getting into serious electrical work or want more protection while towing, remove the pack source leads.

[virtualy]

Thanks. Again.

[Raystar57]

Forgot to add IMO you need new cables all around.
You will be happy with that area of the cart so you can focus on other items.
Don't scrimp here and insure the terminal holes are the correct 5/16".
Go with 4awg or 2awg if you want.
Torque to 100 inch! pounds and you should be good to go.

[orangeman6]

Virtualy, I would also add that you should check under the seat more often than every six months just to make sure water is where it should be and corrosion is not.